Jump to content
SAU Community

Machining Shop Needed

SECURITY

By SECURITY,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

ive decided to repair my rb25 block instead of going with an rb30 block.

im looking for a shop in syd that will hone my block by hand so i can repair my bottom end by just replacing that piston thats screwed so i can get my car back on the road asap.

in the meantime ill be building an rb30/26 slowly. i dont want to do it now as i need my car for work and uni, and theres more work involved in the rb30/25 than i expected.

so does anyone have any recommendations on anywhere i can go that will machine my block and balance my crank?

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100823-machining-shop-needed/
Share on other sites
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Did you have a good look at the bore that the busted piston is? If you have score marks there you wont be able to hone them out , you will need a total rebore and new pistons .

If its not scored and it doesnt have a lip then a light hone will do the trick , new piston rings and one new piston. You will have to rectify the problem that made your ringlands bust though or she will be out again very soon .

I cant understand why you would want to use old pistons and a stuffed bore but you want to balance the crank !

Who will be doing the assembly ?

If you need a bore + hone job pm , i can get it done for you for about $150 , just a light hone you can do yourself .

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i guess you're right. i wont bother with the crank.

the reason why it stuffed up in the first place was it was tuned for 12psi, and while i was doing a burnout at the beginning of my run im pretty sure it boosted (spiked) up to around the 18psi mark. im getting an ebc after i fix it.

me and my brother in law will be doing the assembly, hes a mechanic.

ill be taking the engine out next week and i dont really trust myself to do the hone myself, i'd rather someone else did it.

ill definately get back to you if i need it to be bored out.

thanks mate.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

If the engine is still in the car you are only guessing as to what you need to do .

Pull the engine out and when you take the cil head off you can see if the bore is ok . If you just want a quick , cheap patch up job and the bore is ok then a light hone , new rings and check the bearings for wear , more than likely you will change the big end bearings .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...