Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

since the old girl was apart i figured i would take some steps if neccisary to keep the engine lubed properly when on the track.

are there any inherent problems with rwd rb engines and their pans, and if so what can be done to improve lubercation to prevent oil starvation?

i know that SK has reccomended running oil restrictors to keep oil to the head at a minimum as well as installing an external drain line from the head to the pan, but are there any other points i could do?

i just dont want to be on the track, swing the car round hard and find that ive eaten a few bearings.

on that same note does anyone know about swinnging pickups for the rb, i know that ive heard it mentioned a few times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100864-oil-control/
Share on other sites

hey all.

since the old girl was apart i figured i would take some steps if neccisary to keep the engine lubed properly when on the track.

are there any inherent problems with rwd rb engines and their pans, and if so what can be done to improve lubercation to prevent oil starvation?

i know that SK has reccomended running oil restrictors to keep oil to the head at a minimum as well as installing an external drain line from the head to the pan, but are there any other points i could do?

i just dont want to be on the track, swing the car round hard and find that ive eaten a few bearings.

on that same note does anyone know about swinnging pickups for the rb, i know that ive heard it mentioned a few times.

run an external single stage oil pump similar to a dry sump set-up. Its run off the crank pulley and driven by a gilmer belt. Its the be all and end all of rb oiling problems.

an enlarged baffled swing door sump will be required too.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100864-oil-control/#findComment-1840884
Share on other sites

We make our own sumps for the race team cars, but you can buy one of these retail from High Energy;

1108452125015-5787.jpg

HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up $962.50

;) cheers :worship:

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100864-oil-control/#findComment-1841284
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...