Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wanted some opinions on how to run in my motor. I've just finished building it and will be putting the engine back in this week.

My machinist told me not to rev it hard but to load it up so that the rings bed in nicely.

He said to find a good hill and to load it up to 2 grand in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc... with foot to the floor but to make sure not to go past 2 grand..

Does this sound about right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101113-running-in-engine/
Share on other sites

Basically you want to take it easy for the first 1000km. Put good quality fully synthetic oil in it and run it in. Don't rev it hard and try to stay off boost. Make sure you run it in all gears as the machinist recommended. After 1000km change the oil and flush out any debree if any from the rebuild.

Do a search. :mellow:

I wouldn't be running synthetic straight off the bat.

Run a plain mineral oil. Do 2-3 oil/filter changes within 1000km's, I then stuck with a good mineral oil until 10,000km's which was a bit of an overkill, 5000km's is fine.

I found the motor stopped using oil around 4500km's, so in my book up until then it wasn't completely run in.

Better to be safe than sorry I say.

Google will also return some interesting info.

I came across an article where I think it was the jap Honda manuals stated not to run synth until 10,000km's, where as the US manuals stated 1000km's. hrmm.. :blink:

A few basic guidelines..

No in gear deceleration, simply drop it in neutral, especially within the first 100km's.

Give it a few rev's anywhere up to 3500rpm with quite a bit of throttle, get some load in to it, possibly wire open the wastegate if the afr's are up shiet creek on boost.

Don't load it up for too long

Don't sit on a certian rpm point for too long

Don't labour the motor

Don't let it idle for long periods of time

Edited by Cubes

I'm with Cubes.

Use a mineral oil for the first 1000.

I've done two run in's of late and both used mineral for the bedding in.

Synthetic is too good at lubricating the bore.

You need the pistons to scrape the honing marks from the bore and bed with the walls. If the oil is too slippery and you end up with a varnishing effect on the walls and loose power through blow-by.

Multi filter changes are recommended to remove any contaminates from the oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...