Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wanted some opinions on how to run in my motor. I've just finished building it and will be putting the engine back in this week.

My machinist told me not to rev it hard but to load it up so that the rings bed in nicely.

He said to find a good hill and to load it up to 2 grand in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc... with foot to the floor but to make sure not to go past 2 grand..

Does this sound about right?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101113-running-in-engine/
Share on other sites

Basically you want to take it easy for the first 1000km. Put good quality fully synthetic oil in it and run it in. Don't rev it hard and try to stay off boost. Make sure you run it in all gears as the machinist recommended. After 1000km change the oil and flush out any debree if any from the rebuild.

Do a search. :mellow:

I wouldn't be running synthetic straight off the bat.

Run a plain mineral oil. Do 2-3 oil/filter changes within 1000km's, I then stuck with a good mineral oil until 10,000km's which was a bit of an overkill, 5000km's is fine.

I found the motor stopped using oil around 4500km's, so in my book up until then it wasn't completely run in.

Better to be safe than sorry I say.

Google will also return some interesting info.

I came across an article where I think it was the jap Honda manuals stated not to run synth until 10,000km's, where as the US manuals stated 1000km's. hrmm.. :blink:

A few basic guidelines..

No in gear deceleration, simply drop it in neutral, especially within the first 100km's.

Give it a few rev's anywhere up to 3500rpm with quite a bit of throttle, get some load in to it, possibly wire open the wastegate if the afr's are up shiet creek on boost.

Don't load it up for too long

Don't sit on a certian rpm point for too long

Don't labour the motor

Don't let it idle for long periods of time

Edited by Cubes

I'm with Cubes.

Use a mineral oil for the first 1000.

I've done two run in's of late and both used mineral for the bedding in.

Synthetic is too good at lubricating the bore.

You need the pistons to scrape the honing marks from the bore and bed with the walls. If the oil is too slippery and you end up with a varnishing effect on the walls and loose power through blow-by.

Multi filter changes are recommended to remove any contaminates from the oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...