Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what are the differences between the 2 im looking at buying a GTS25T but i have been looking around and u c GTS-T's and the specs say it has a 2.5L in it... like every GTS-T bar 2 or three said they have a 2.5L, from what i understand the GTS-T is the 2.0L and the GTS25T is the 2.5L...HLEP...lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101227-ecr3233-and-hr3233/
Share on other sites

that wine red r33 at MJR is my cars twin! lol

btw a HR33 would be an R33 with an RB20E engine.

Yup

ECR33= RB25 powered R33.

HCR33= RB20 powered R33, only in non turbo though.

I wouldn't get an HCR33, just tooo slow.

The Skyline Chassis Break Down basics (For R31, R32, R33, R34)

1: Engine Type (F = CA18, H = RB20, E = RB25 & B = RB26)

2: Attessa Equipped (N)

3: HICAS Equipped ( C ) (R31 - R33. For whatever reason R34s do not specify HICAS in the VIN No)

4: Model (R32, R33 & R34)

therefore you can deduct the following:

FR32: An R32 with an CA18

HR32: An R32 with an RB20

HCR32: An R32 with an RB20 & HICAS

ER33: An R33 with an RB20

ER34: R34 with an RB25

BNCR33: R33 with an RB26, Attessa & HICAS (GTR)

This said the R32 & R34 GTR are not stamped with the HICAS symbol however are equipped and are often referred to with it.

I hope that answers more questions then it creates.

The Skyline Chassis Break Down basics (For R31, R32, R33, R34)

1: Engine Type (F = CA18, H = RB20, E = RB25 & B = RB26)

2: Attessa Equipped (N)

3: HICAS Equipped © (R31 - R33. All R34 models equipped?)

4: Model (R32, R33 & R34)

therefore you can deduct the following:

FR32: An R32 with an CA18

HR32: An R32 with an RB20

HCR32: An R32 with an RB20 & HICAS

ER33: An R33 with an RB20

ER34: R34 with an RB25

BNCR33: R33 with an RB26, Attessa & HICAS (GTR)

This said the R32 & R34 GTR are not stamped with the HICAS symbol however are equipped and are often referred to with it.

I hope that answers more questions then it creates.

Well done! :P

Wow, didn't know the 32's came with ca18's aswell. U learn something new everyday.

Oh & BTW, I think that when r33 owners say "GTS-T" they're just abbreviating the "25" bit. I know that's what I do :)

If you use the guide I have above, the HCR33 would mean an R33 with an RB20 and HICAS. If it's a turbo model then they are advertised the model code wrong. Both an R33 GTS25 & GTS25-t should have the chassis code of ECR33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...