Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what are the differences between the 2 im looking at buying a GTS25T but i have been looking around and u c GTS-T's and the specs say it has a 2.5L in it... like every GTS-T bar 2 or three said they have a 2.5L, from what i understand the GTS-T is the 2.0L and the GTS25T is the 2.5L...HLEP...lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101227-ecr3233-and-hr3233/
Share on other sites

that wine red r33 at MJR is my cars twin! lol

btw a HR33 would be an R33 with an RB20E engine.

Yup

ECR33= RB25 powered R33.

HCR33= RB20 powered R33, only in non turbo though.

I wouldn't get an HCR33, just tooo slow.

The Skyline Chassis Break Down basics (For R31, R32, R33, R34)

1: Engine Type (F = CA18, H = RB20, E = RB25 & B = RB26)

2: Attessa Equipped (N)

3: HICAS Equipped ( C ) (R31 - R33. For whatever reason R34s do not specify HICAS in the VIN No)

4: Model (R32, R33 & R34)

therefore you can deduct the following:

FR32: An R32 with an CA18

HR32: An R32 with an RB20

HCR32: An R32 with an RB20 & HICAS

ER33: An R33 with an RB20

ER34: R34 with an RB25

BNCR33: R33 with an RB26, Attessa & HICAS (GTR)

This said the R32 & R34 GTR are not stamped with the HICAS symbol however are equipped and are often referred to with it.

I hope that answers more questions then it creates.

The Skyline Chassis Break Down basics (For R31, R32, R33, R34)

1: Engine Type (F = CA18, H = RB20, E = RB25 & B = RB26)

2: Attessa Equipped (N)

3: HICAS Equipped © (R31 - R33. All R34 models equipped?)

4: Model (R32, R33 & R34)

therefore you can deduct the following:

FR32: An R32 with an CA18

HR32: An R32 with an RB20

HCR32: An R32 with an RB20 & HICAS

ER33: An R33 with an RB20

ER34: R34 with an RB25

BNCR33: R33 with an RB26, Attessa & HICAS (GTR)

This said the R32 & R34 GTR are not stamped with the HICAS symbol however are equipped and are often referred to with it.

I hope that answers more questions then it creates.

Well done! :P

Wow, didn't know the 32's came with ca18's aswell. U learn something new everyday.

Oh & BTW, I think that when r33 owners say "GTS-T" they're just abbreviating the "25" bit. I know that's what I do :)

If you use the guide I have above, the HCR33 would mean an R33 with an RB20 and HICAS. If it's a turbo model then they are advertised the model code wrong. Both an R33 GTS25 & GTS25-t should have the chassis code of ECR33.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...