Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard on the grapevine that the dramatically increased volume of items being purchased from overseas via the internet has caused Australian Customs to revise their guidlines. They seem unable to handle the volume and have issued new guidlines to speed up the processing, plus they don't have the storage space. Previously they let items through without Duty and GST up to $200, some time ago that seemed to be revised to $400. This new guidline is apparently $1,000. So any shipment under $1,000 declared value will not be charged Import Duty or GST.

Would someone in the customs industry like to comment further?

PS; this doesn't affect US sourced items as they are covered by the Free Trade Agreement and don't have any duty regardless of their value.

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101599-new-customs-guidlines/
Share on other sites

ECU's don't acquire a tax/duty anyway.

I though that was only standard ECU's, aftermarket ECU's are made in Australia (Motec, Autronic etc) so I thought duty would apply to imports.

:D cheers :D

All goods (except for tobacco products and alcoholic beverages) may be imported duty and tax free if their value is $1,000 or less.

Taken from 'When buying over the Internet' - page on Customs.

It also states that goods delivered by post will be sent on direct to the addressee, but items sent via other means would require a declaration to be lodged before clearance.

Furthermore, "where there are multiple packages to the same addressee in Australia from a single consignor overseas that arrive at about the same time, then the value of all packages will be combined for duty and tax assessment purposes."

Thanks for the heads up Gary!

  • 1 month later...
The US Free Trade agreement only applies to goods manufactured and then sold in the US.

So does that mean goods that are manufactured anywhere in the world and then sold in the US

OR

manufactured AND sold in the US

  • 3 months later...

yeah anything under 1000 goods in value A.U.D mite not have duty on it but THEN your pretty much paying freight, itf charges etc

its how money is made through the trade industry nobody will let you ship for free and customs will charge, you also do need a customs clearance to be launched to customs which then will cost YOU MORE..

geez its so good to work in a customs broking firm :)

best bet to get a quote from a customs broking firm... you could end up getting stuff for cheap just realli depends who u no

:blink:

yeah anything under 1000 goods in value A.U.D mite not have duty on it but THEN your pretty much paying freight, itf charges etc

its how money is made through the trade industry nobody will let you ship for free and customs will charge, you also do need a customs clearance to be launched to customs which then will cost YOU MORE..

geez its so good to work in a customs broking firm :D

best bet to get a quote from a customs broking firm... you could end up getting stuff for cheap just realli depends who u no

:blink:

so you're saying you can get everyone stuff cheap :)

  • 9 months later...

Anything valued less than A$1000 FOB is duty free nad exempt GST, however second-hand gear is subject to quarantine. By mail it will generally be cleared at the mail exchange and then delivered, but by sea and airfreight it will require a SAC (self-assessed clearance) to be lodged. you can do it yourself, but it can be time consuming.

Cars and most parts are still 10% duty and 10% GST, which will phase down to 5% duty in 2010 (as long as there's no change of government). Some bits are subject to restrictions, such as tyres (should have a DOT mark) and seatbelts (ASA marks) but this is rarely enforced. Airconditioning is a real pain in the arse, and expensive to import due to licencing requirements by the federal dept of Environment and Heritage. I've been lobbying with other interested parties to change the import rules for some time, to no avail- the current system is more about keeping Ford, Holden, toyota and especially Mitsubishi afloat than any bollocks about safety and emissions.

Most car parts aren't covered by the US FTA, so you pay duty anyway.

All goods (except for tobacco products and alcoholic beverages) may be imported duty and tax free if their value is $1,000 or less.

Taken from 'When buying over the Internet' - page on Customs.

It also states that goods delivered by post will be sent on direct to the addressee, but items sent via other means would require a declaration to be lodged before clearance.

Furthermore, "where there are multiple packages to the same addressee in Australia from a single consignor overseas that arrive at about the same time, then the value of all packages will be combined for duty and tax assessment purposes."

Thanks for the heads up Gary!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...