Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a choice between the Pirelli Dragons or the Falken FK451's.

The Pirellis being $100 more for a set of 4.

The only problem I see is that the Pirellis are an asymmetrical tread, meaning I wont be able to rotate the tyres.

Has anyone any experience or knowledge about either of these tyres?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101792-pirelli-dragon-or-falken-fk451/
Share on other sites

I was under the impression that the Falken are directional so you will only be able to go front to back (not side to side)

The Dragon's are non-directional so you can move them anywhere - the outside of the tyre will always remain the outside of the tyre so the asymetry doesn't matter.

But I have no experiance driving on either tyre. I've been looking recently and decided on the Pilot Preceda from Michelin for my S13.

Cheers

Adrian

The falken fk451 are the best road tyres I have driven on they are great.

I've never tried the pirellis, but I would be amazed if a well established brand can do better tyres at around the same price :P

The dragons I believe are asymmetrical as describe dby their site.

In other words, the outer side of the tyre must remain on the outside. So tyres cannot be rotated diagonally, only from front to back.

Have read a few threads about the 451s and people seem to think they are on par with the Azeni ST115 if not better.

How much are a set of 451 in 18"?

assymetrical tyres can be moved to any wheel as long as they are not directional as well.

The outside of the wheel is always the outside no matter which way the wheel is turning. Just need the tyre shop to put them on properly. This is a main reason we use assymetric tyres at targa the spare will fit on any wheel 245/45/17 all round

Then are these directional?

http://www.au.pirelli.com/en_AU/tyres/cata...productid=17126

So which tyres can I rotate? both the Falken 451s and the Pirelli Dragons?

Very confused. So asymmetrical doesnt mean anything with regards to rotating, but directional does?

Edited by nuffsaid

According to Pirellie website Dragon are assymetric not directional.

Its pretty straightforward, with assymetrical the tyre can only be fitted on the rim one way ie there is an inside and an outside of the tyre. But no matter which corner you put the wheel on inside is always inside and outside is always outside.

With directional tyres they are only designed to roll one way, it is marked on the tyre. When the tyre place puts them on the rim they are either mounted for left or right side of the car. You will be able to see by the arrow on the sidewall which way it turns.

You can only swap directional tyres from side to side if they take them right off the rim and put them back on the other way around.

Thats the best I can explain without pics.

All good I understand now.

So with pure asymmetrical, I can rotate diagonally without taking nthe rubber of the wheel. Whereas with directional you have to in order to swap sides or leave em on if u want to swap back to front etc.

Would anyone choose the Pirellis over the Falkens? If so why?

And are asymmetrical better than directional?

You can rotate any tyre, as long as you pay someone to peel it off the rim. I do that, since my front and rear rims are different sizes and I tend to get directional tyres.

Anyway, Pirellis always seem to do badly on Motor and Wheels' annual tyre tests. Not just for their exorbitant price; they do badly in general. Last year, the brand new P Zeros tested on the XR6T got pwned by the 15,000km old (and we're talking journo k's, so none of them were gentle) OEM tyres.

You can rotate any tyre, as long as you pay someone to peel it off the rim. I do that, since my front and rear rims are different sizes and I tend to get directional tyres.

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

Might opt for teh Falkens.

Seems like the Pirellis, because they are asymmetrical, will be hard to rotate because if the inside of the tyre wears out quicker, when you rotate, the inside will still be the inside.

I noticed that with Skylines, the insides of both front and rear tyres seem to wear quicker when slightly lowered, so rotating a worn inner tyre at the front to the back doesnt really help.

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

OK now I am confused. I've never come across an assymetrical and directional tyre that would be a PITA.

There is no problem moving your average directional tyre from one side to another if you rotate it on the rim like scathing said. Directional tyres I have rotated include dunlop DJ01, bridgestone re55s, kumho 711 and 712, falken RS-V04, FK451 and ST115, yoko A032R and A048R. Im not saying there are none you cant rotate but i have never come across one. When they are fittted to the rim they are either left or right but can be swapped by removing from the rim

The only assymetric tyres I have used are Dunlop DZ02G, once they are on a rim you can put them on any corner.

Most general road tyres are niether directional or assymetric, so the tyre fitter can fit them any way on any corner.

Most general road tyres are niether directional or assymetric, so the tyre fitter can fit them any way on any corner.

Thats true too Duncan but there are few that are either left or right so they can only be fitted one way . Yoko andvan use to have them i dont know if they still do though but generaly they are not widely used, they are very rare .

I would go for the fk451. Like everyone always says, they are very very good.

I agree with what was said about. I have never liked Pirellis. They are always soft which gives the illusion that they give good traction. They have poor life since they're soft, yet the traction is not that good.

I've driven on the 451s in my rwd skyline and in the wet, I can hit corners at almost double the speed of my daily driver with commuter tyres.

NB: the above cornering was done under controlled safe conditions.

OK now I am confused.  I've never come across an assymetrical and directional tyre that would be a PITA.

There is no problem moving your average directional tyre from one side to another if you rotate it on the rim like scathing said.  Directional tyres I have rotated include dunlop DJ01, bridgestone re55s, kumho 711 and 712, falken RS-V04, FK451 and

My bridgestone RE55S tyres are asymmetric and directional. That is, you purchase

a tyre for a particular side of the car and 'rotation' is front-to-back only.

There are a couple of different RE55S models; I've only ever bought the WT tyres. Perhaps your RE55S are a different model?

Regards,

Saliya

post-14974-1137971854.jpgpost-14974-1137972025.jpg

I chose a 235/40 FK451, much more comfortable than my thicker sidewalled Yoko DNA GPs. I think the Yokos had a very stiff sidewall.

The Falkens seen okay, driven 50kms on them. Was slippery in the dry at first because I think of the release agent thats on the rubber, but seems to be better now.

Dont know how many kms it needs to be scrubbed in though. Anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...