Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You've got a remapped ecu that is certianly not tuned for your bigger turbo... There is your problem. You can't hear all pinging. It'll be rattling those forgies left right and center and you won't have  clue till you start seeing blue smoke in the rearview mirror.

Dumbest shit ever.

Go and get your car tuned properly before you kill it.

if you had of Listed your mods to start with, explained what you've done, and didn't be a smartassed prick about it you might have gotten better answers. You wonder why people have got no idea what you're on about and can't help you? Noticed the scattered posts that people have left here with no idea?

Is it just me, or does SAU get stupider by the week?

"Everyone, omg, wtf, I just installed a bigger turbo and my car doesn't ping at 20psi! Whats wrong with it!!!!1111oneone!!111!!"

try reading the question properly! in the future instead of writing just wat is in your head, actually y bother if you just want to be a smartass. The reason i didnt list the supporting mods is cause it has no effect on the ACTUAL question, you just wanted to pick s*%t.

secondly you say "Is it just me, or does SAU get stupider by the week?"

sorry we dont all just sit behind a computer and think we r clever cause we can type we can actually do the mods OURSELFS "mechanically minded" instead of paying a performance shop $$$$ to do it for us,

Edited by EVL032
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1880568
Share on other sites

thanks you actually offered help!!! :D

With a rebuilt turbo it should be more efficent, meaning more airflow at the same psi of restriction. So actually if it was tuned on map it would be more likely to ping and if on maf same thing but max it out sooner and go into rich mapping to avoid detonation, maybe thats why.

A new turbo wont give you more boost on the same setting, (i dont care who you are) its just a setting to tell the wastegate when to open.

My 2 cents.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1880583
Share on other sites

dipshit, I did the mods myself. I don't tune, because I don't have the equipment.

You started off with the smartassed remarks, and you went on about why your car isn't pinging... thats just a dumb question... I know enough about tuning to know that its not pinging for a reason...which is probably good...

you want it to ping... go and fuel up with 91 octane fuel..

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1881386
Share on other sites

Do you have electronic Boost control?

if so, it shoudl hold the same boost.

Do you have standard Boost control?

if so, I doubt it would just 7 psi just from changing the turbo.

Do you have a blee valve?

is so, it's probably knacker or have been knocked during the refitting and needs to be adjusted back.

Do you have an aftermarket computer?

if not, your stock computer is doing the rich and retard dance.

More details, or we are all pissingg in the wind, and I don't like getting wet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1882099
Share on other sites

okay iam over it

i dont want it to ping i know that

isnt this a forum where ppl help, so i was just curious as to y????

read the question

dipshit, I did the mods myself. I don't tune, because I don't have the equipment.

You started off with the smartassed remarks, and you went on about why your car isn't pinging... thats just a dumb question... I know enough about tuning to know that its not pinging for a reason...which is probably good...

you want it to ping... go and fuel up with 91 octane fuel..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883864
Share on other sites

EVL032

We need to know everything about the problem including supporting modifications before we can accurately help.

What you have done is said this

I just put new tyres on my bike.

Then I fell off.

Why?

Please give us some more details.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883875
Share on other sites

Do you have electronic Boost control?

if so, it shoudl hold the same boost.

yes but its a little old school its the hks ez

that was set on 13 before changed turbo when turbo went back in and no one moved the dial was at 20psi

Do you have standard Boost control?

if so, I doubt it would just 7 psi just from changing the turbo.

the internal wastegate is set at 15psi, but yeh refer question 1

Do you have a blee valve? n/a

is so, it's probably knacker or have been knocked during the refitting and needs to be adjusted back.

Do you have an aftermarket computer? remap

if not, your stock computer is doing the rich and retard dance.

now i got it sorted anyway i got it a 18psi that me happy enough atm, till can re-tune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883877
Share on other sites

that was set on 13 before changed turbo when turbo went back in and no one moved the dial was at 20psi

The ebc works on a fixed duty cycle to set boost. If it were a 'learning' ebc where you dial in 15psi and it learns what duty cycle required to achieve that boost level at various rpms then it would be a different story.

I think maybe a boost leak has been fixed up in the process. :P

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1888463
Share on other sites

mmhh yeh i guess so! i agree with that.

yeh there was deffinantly problems before..... but now all good .yay!

The ebc works on a fixed duty cycle to set boost. If it were a 'learning' ebc where you dial in 15psi and it learns what duty cycle required to achieve that boost level at various rpms then it would be a different story.

I think maybe a boost leak has been fixed up in the process. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1895083
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...