Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HEY ALL,

i am desperately seeking a r32 gts4 manual 4 door as stated above.

i'm located in melbourne but will travel interstate if i find a car that meets my needs.

so if anyone is selling one of these machines or knows of anyone that is pls contact me.!!!!!

CHEERS,

ADO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101915-wtb-r32-gts4-manual-4door/
Share on other sites

Hey,

I've got a burgundy one which i'm thinking about selling.

Basically standard, has 3" exhaust from turbo back, tomei 300km/h speedo, t3/t4 garrett turbo (very low km)

Let me know,

Leigh.

I'd like around $14,800 for it. It's in very good condition, genuine low kilometres. And i've done all the small expensive things, such as new abs/4wd sensors, timing belt, crank shaft oil seal (front), turbo, fuel pump and more.

I will email some photos if you can give me your email address. I dont have any recent ones, but i've got all the ones from when i bought it. Hasn't changed.

It's a factory manual (not a conversion) and has a few factory options, such as the wind deflectors, stickers on rear doors, and genuine nissan mats.

Good chance to pick up a very very rare car... ie. R32 GTS4 manual sedan..

Leigh.

I have one also. R32 GTS-4, 4 Door Manual. Not registered/complianced. Usual condition for its age. Has import approval under 15 year rule. $8000. It arrives from japan next week in Brisbane

post-24067-1137413267.jpg

post-24067-1137414081.jpg

post-24067-1137414139.jpg

post-24067-1137414176.jpg

Edited by XJ40
I have one also. R32 GTS-4, 4 Door Manual. Not registered/complianced. Usual condition for its age. Has import approval under 15 year rule. $8000

How many kilometres has this one travelled? Anything else you can tell me about it?

I have one also. R32 GTS-4, 4 Door Manual. Not registered/complianced. Usual condition for its age. Has import approval under 15 year rule. $8000

hey im extremely interested!! Where you located?? if you could send me some more details i would be very pleased.

[email protected]

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...