Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all. Just fitted up the widebody kit to an R32, and got some measurements off it. Now I've got a set of Work Equip's 18x10 and 18x11 for the rears. Any wider and the tyres will send me broke (also if I go any wider in the rears I'll have to use a staggered tyre size, which means different contact patches with the road, which means the traction sensors will go off, which means my ATTESA will go into "oh noes, AWD mode!" 24/7). So some strategic offseting and spacing have to be used.

The fronts fit properly and sit 2mm outside the guard, clears the struts and steers fine, which is perfect.

The problem I have is with the rears, the offset on them needs to be reduced by 27mm (ie the center needs to go inwards another 27mm to make the whole rim sit around 2mm outside the guard. I can either move the center of the rim inwards, or I can get a 27mm spacer. I'd prefer to move the center, as it would, as wanky as it sounds, give the rim some extra testicular fortitude.

Work Equips, the way they are made are a 3 piece rim. There's an inner rim, a center piece and an outer lip. Basically I need the inner rim to be shortened 27mm, and the outer lip extended by 27mm.

I'm looking for a workshop that can do this, and machine the rims so that the alterations are not visible, and as the outer lip is chrome, re-chrome the outer lip. Does anyone work at a shop that does this, know anyone that does this, or have had work done at a shop that can do this sorta task.

If this doesn't come to fruition, I'm gonna have to custom order a set of inner and outer rims from work themselves, which I anticipate to be a lot more costly. So any help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101944-where-to-get-rim-re-fabricated/
Share on other sites

... or I could shell out $50 and get a 27mm spacer. I'll have to get the rims remachined/fixed anyway, so I figured I might as well get this done too.

anyways... here's some pics of the rims.

front:

work_equips_f01.jpg

work_equips_f02.jpg

work_equips_f03.jpg

rear:

work_equips_r01.jpg

work_equips_r02.jpg

work_equips_r03.jpg

Work Equips, the way they are made are a 3 piece rim. There's an inner rim, a center piece and an outer lip. Basically I need the inner rim to be shortened 27mm, and the outer lip extended by 27mm.

27mm is a helluva lot to take off the centre of the rim (if I understand correctly), especially in an area where all the load transfer occurs. But perhaps there's sufficient 'meat' (hard to tell from the photos).

Whats the offset on the rims?

Your talking about the BN kit aint ya?

How much wider are the guards front and rear?

Have ya thought about selling those rims and going for a set of fatter rims? (2nd hand) Widebody rims are cheap :P

just use a spacer u tard like everyone else :D

well that's what I'll have to do if I can't get them redone.

27mm is a helluva lot to take off the centre of the rim (if I understand correctly), especially in an area where all the load transfer occurs.  But perhaps there's sufficient 'meat' (hard to tell from the photos).

Yup, that's one o my concerns, which is why I'm hoping to find a workshop that can advice me properly.

Whats the offset on the rims?
Its in the pics
Your talking about the BN kit aint ya?
Yes
How much wider are the guards front and rear?
Wide enough that a 10" with a +10 offset sits flush with the front.
Have ya thought about selling those rims and going for a set of fatter rims? (2nd hand) Widebody rims are cheap :(

When was the last time you saw Work Equips in 18"x11" with around a -50 offset sell cheap? Fatter rims dosen't solve my problem. The widths of the rims are perfect. Its the offsets that are wrong.

I don't know what the offset is off the top of my head, but i'll have a look later tonight.

sizes are 17x7 & 17x8. the 17x7's look terrible. they're too narrow and don't fill the guards, the 8's look better with their ~1" lip. To be honest i don't even know if they're original Work's. I don't know how to tell...any tell-tale marks I should look for?

not that I know of, the center cap and sticker are what I usually use.

I'm just thinking if I find someone with narrower 18" wheels, then I can use their inner rim, and jus thave to have the outer lip redone.

When was the last time you saw Work Equips in 18"x11" with around a -50 offset sell cheap? Fatter rims dosen't solve my problem. The widths of the rims are perfect. Its the offsets that are wrong.

My bad, im still learning this offset thing. Yes i read up in the new HPI but that was kinda pathetic.

Sorry for all the Q's but i really want a BN Kit for my S14, and im worried those guards are too big! I got told they are +100mm front and rear. Ive got a set of rims that are 10.5 +13 for front and 11.5 +13 for rear, i dont hink they will be enough to fill those monster guards.

Ive also been told a chap by the name Jimmy D modifies rims i think hes in Coburg area (if thats near you?) He usually has ads in the back of AutoSupermarket.

No worries Kelly, rims with positive offset are gonna be hard to fit under the BN sports blister kit. Not withough some chunky arse spacers anyways.

We test fitted the kit and some rims to take measurements off. What we found was that 10" wide rims on the front with a +0 offset fit under the guards perfectly with a 10mm spacer. And in the rear 10" wide rims with a +0 offset fit 50mm inside the guard. Both wheels clear all suspension and brakes too. I'm basically using these measurements and some simple maths to work out what rims will fit and clear all the parts under the arches.

G, thanks for the number. It seems most shops want to see the rims before they comment on it, so I might just organise to drop in and talk to em. Also do you know the legalities of splicing rims? I think you're only allowed to have one weld on a rim, but that's on a monoblock rim, not a 3 piece.

Ni, if it ends up costing too much or just a serious hassle then I'll resort to the spacer. No one seems to have gone down this avenue fully before, so I'm gonna find out for sure before giving up hope on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...