Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

whats wrong with it now?

maybe we need a working bee.

I broke the fork to the gearbox and having a hard time trying to get one to fix it.

Was told that "they" had one in stock and it would be overnight, that was 3 days ago <_<

Once i get a fork the gearbox is ready to come out to replace clutch with new "RBD" drift clutch.

Short throw kit will be going in and also new tail shaft (yoke on the old one is a little dicky )

The car is off the road so i can get EVERYTHING done on it.

FMIC

oil cooler

cams

new exhaust done

PFC fitted and tuned

oil catch tank (should of been done yonks ago )

changing NISMO dash's back over

body work repaired and resprayed (not 100% essential though)

CBF bonnet ( not 100% essential)

Once that is finished and i have some spare cash then the D2 suspension will be ordered and car ready to drive again. :)

Only problem is i have no where to do any work on the car as i dont have a garage and i have no tools what so ever at the moment!!!! ;)

Working be is in order but it would take about 3 days to get the car ready with 2-3 people that know what there doing

My entry is in as well, sounds like it will be a screaming skyline challenge up at the vale !!!

STOP IT, I DONT WANT TO HEAR IT

:lol:

Look forward to seeing the NISSAN BOYS dominate the hill again this year :)

So whats the entry list looking like???

And who wants to help me get my car back on that road, there will be plenty of "refreshing beverages" at will :D

Cheers B

If you need a hand and i'm not working sing out :D

If you need a hand and i'm not working sing out  :D

Cheers mate

but as already stated i have no where to work on the car, nor do i have any tools any more so im going to have to bite the bullet and save to get it done professionally :D

Waldo will no doubt be quick in the Rex.

Anyone game to pick a top three finishing order?

dont know about top three Stu, but I will be in the last three :rofl:

Edited by woolls
Waldo will no doubt be quick in the Rex.

Anyone game to pick a top three finishing order?

Thats a pretty big asked Benno.

I can see a few familar names there that should run well, but we wont know till the day now will we :wub:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...