Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey boosted22 did you get an answer from the car yard?

if they dont want to play ball i suggest give Consumer Affairs a call, i had some hassles with my insurance paying me out for damage to my wheel when i had my accident, tried tellin me the damage was there before, i said sort it out or im callin Consumer Affairs, got a cheque in the mail the following week. in other words if you let them shaft you they will, dont let them play you for a fool. you pay good money for a car so you want to get what you paid for!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1898260
Share on other sites

yer its crazy, very p#$$%@ about it, went to the car yard this morning, had a big arguement, first thing he offered me was 1000 bucks to just leave it like that, no ones gonna know he said as long as u can live with it, i said your an idiot its not legal, then hes like yer we can fix the problem all we need to do is change the front rotors to vented ones, i said what about the blody calipers, there on 2 piston not 4, oh yer i guess we can fix that will just need to do the front because the back doesnt need to be vented disc, but i tried to explain about studd patteren, was just getting no were, then i asked him about the wheels i brought, oh nah we cant give your money back for that wasnt our falt u brought them, i said what wheels are you gonna put on it whens its 5 studd, he said nah i would have to do that as well, i just said f@#$ u and walked off, came back to me nannas house and rang consumer affairs, but they were no help, i should of ask them when i brought the car if it was all genuine or not, what a load of shit, hows gonna think a 96 skyline straight from the imports would not be a genuine one, she said theres nothing i can do, i should of check first, all there liable is to fix the brakes, she said the wheels are me problem because they werent to know. its crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1898470
Share on other sites

yer its crazy, very p#$$%@ about it, went to the car yard this morning, had a big arguement, first thing he offered me was 1000 bucks to just leave it like that, no ones gonna know he said as long as u can live with it, i said your an idiot its not legal, then hes like yer we can fix the problem all we need to do is change the front rotors to vented ones, i said what about the blody calipers, there on 2 piston not 4, oh yer i guess we can fix that will just need to do the front because the back doesnt need to be vented disc, but i tried to explain about studd patteren, was just getting no were, then i asked him about the wheels i brought, oh nah we cant give your money back for that wasnt our falt u brought them, i said what wheels are you gonna put on it whens its 5 studd, he said nah i would have to do that as well, i just said f@#$ u and walked off, came back to me nannas house and rang consumer affairs, but they were no help, i should of ask them when i brought the car if it was all genuine or not, what a load of shit, hows gonna think a 96 skyline straight from the imports would not be a genuine one, she said theres nothing i can do, i should of check first, all there liable is to fix the brakes, she said the wheels are me problem because they werent to know. its crap.

I knew that this might have been the case :domokun: I hope things turn for the better.....sooner rather than later :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1899026
Share on other sites

There's usually a cooling off period for purchases. How long since you bought it? I'd assume something as expensive as a car would be at least 2 weeks. Also, you shouldn't have had to ask "is it genuine", because they were selling it as a GTS-T, not a GTS-with-turbo-bolted-on. If they said it was a GTR and it was RWD only, it would be the same thing. Call consumer affairs and ask them what the cool-off period is.

You should be entitled to a full refund, as they 100% ripped you off. If you really can't get a refund, take it to regency and tell them it's a factory non-turbo with a turbo attached to it. Then they will defect the living shit out of it, and then you can force them to fix it, as they sold you an unroadworthy vehicle. Call the vehicle modifcations section of transport SA and (DO NOT GIVE THEM YOUR NAME lol) ask them about the 5-stud, diff, etc. Then, write everything down, or even better, get them to fax you a fact sheet, and go down to the car yard and tell them, if you don't give me a refund now, I will go to regency. Show them the fact sheet and what is allowed and not allowed. If they offer to remove the turbo, ask for a refund again, or a swap for an actual GTS-T. Do not yell at them, or raise your voice at all, just give them the facts. Try to get a small tape recorder and record the conversation, and also tell them that you are recording them. This should scare three colours of shit out of them and allow you a bit more leverage.

If it gets to the regency stage, then make sure to tell them what you think is wrong with it, and the differences between GTS and GTS-T, diff, gearbox, engine, etc. If they just say, take the turbo off and it will be legal, then you can go back to the car yard and say, you sold me a car that's supposed to be turbo, which legally can't be. Either modify it to be legally turbo or give me a refund, and then call Consumer Affairs again. Or, a Current Affair. If you give them enough shit they will cave in, I guarantee it.

Do not accept a partial refund, tell them that next time they will learn to be more careful with what they're selling. And also, for a laugh, tell them that, when they have the car back, "they can live with it and not know the difference".

The wheels.. well you may get a store credit, and most business are understanding about stuff like that. Unfortunately,though, you will probably wear that one. At least in future you'll know :)

Haha, sorry to rant so much, but nothing pisses me off more than car based businesses that think they can just rip people off because no one knows the difference. They would definitely have known about it, and when you got defected for driving a turbo'd non-turbo car, they would be laughing all the way to the bank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1900345
Share on other sites

There's usually a cooling off period for purchases. How long since you bought it? I'd assume something as expensive as a car would be at least 2 weeks. Also, you shouldn't have had to ask "is it genuine", because they were selling it as a GTS-T, not a GTS-with-turbo-bolted-on. If they said it was a GTR and it was RWD only, it would be the same thing. Call consumer affairs and ask them what the cool-off period is.

You should be entitled to a full refund, as they 100% ripped you off. If you really can't get a refund, take it to regency and tell them it's a factory non-turbo with a turbo attached to it. Then they will defect the living shit out of it, and then you can force them to fix it, as they sold you an unroadworthy vehicle. Call the vehicle modifcations section of transport SA and (DO NOT GIVE THEM YOUR NAME lol) ask them about the 5-stud, diff, etc. Then, write everything down, or even better, get them to fax you a fact sheet, and go down to the car yard and tell them, if you don't give me a refund now, I will go to regency. Show them the fact sheet and what is allowed and not allowed. If they offer to remove the turbo, ask for a refund again, or a swap for an actual GTS-T. Do not yell at them, or raise your voice at all, just give them the facts. Try to get a small tape recorder and record the conversation, and also tell them that you are recording them. This should scare three colours of shit out of them and allow you a bit more leverage.

If it gets to the regency stage, then make sure to tell them what you think is wrong with it, and the differences between GTS and GTS-T, diff, gearbox, engine, etc. If they just say, take the turbo off and it will be legal, then you can go back to the car yard and say, you sold me a car that's supposed to be turbo, which legally can't be. Either modify it to be legally turbo or give me a refund, and then call Consumer Affairs again. Or, a Current Affair. If you give them enough shit they will cave in, I guarantee it.

Do not accept a partial refund, tell them that next time they will learn to be more careful with what they're selling. And also, for a laugh, tell them that, when they have the car back,  "they can live with it and not know the difference".

The wheels.. well you may get a store credit, and most business are understanding about stuff like that. Unfortunately,though, you will probably wear that one. At least in future you'll know :)

Haha, sorry to rant so much, but nothing pisses me off more than car based businesses that think they can just rip people off because no one knows the difference. They would definitely have known about it, and when you got defected for driving a turbo'd non-turbo car, they would be laughing all the way to the bank.

thanks mate, yer nothing makes sense to me, when i rang regency, the bloke said everything is ok to them, and the car yard showed me a report from them with everything being ok, i even rang the rego place asked them if the car is regersted as a turbo and she said it doesnt matter to them its not gonna show up on there computers ? , they didnt even pick up on the brakes, but they said if it does have the origianal brakes from the non turbo then it isnt legal, and all the lady from consumers said is, there only to fix the problem of not being road worthy, yer the missus said something about the cooling of period but shes not 100% on what goes on there, im pissed about the whole deal, they have ripped me and got away with it really, but theres no profe of them advertising it as a gts-t, they could simple make up a new advert like they had in the window when selling it, just would like to get a word out to guys not to buy from them, there a$$ holes,

if i didnt like the car so much i would go nuts about the whole deal but i dont think i will get any were, had the car two weeks exactly friday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1900437
Share on other sites

Yes, the cooling off period is your friend.. find out tomorrow what it is, make sure you do it, and then call the place and tell them, I am bringing the car back, within the cooling off period, and I want a refund. I hope you didnt toss the wheels that were on it. The lady at consumer affairs is kind of wrong, because they mis-represented the car. Oh.. if they've advertised the car at all, find the ad and see what it says.. if it says "Skyline GTS-T", then they are kind of buggered, as it certainly ISN'T a GTS-T. But, make sure to hurry if it's within the cooling off period, as they will DEFINITELY know about it and DEFINITELY try to stall you as long as possible to avoid giving you a refund.

You are ENTITLED TO IT.

Dude, I work in retail, and we have taken returns on stuff because the people didn't LIKE IT, let alone we misrepresented it. If we misrepresent something the shit REALLY hits the fan.

You are a customer also, so if you complain to consumer affairs, you can say, I asked if it's a genuine GTS-T and they said it was. Lie as much as you want, they can't prove otherwise. They did sell it as a GTS-T, they even went to the trouble of changing the badge. Normally I don't like the idea of people lieing to get what they want in the beauraucratic world - however when people blatantly rip you off like that, then they need to be put straight by any means necessary. Bugger them.

And, if they start to offer partial refunds, make sure you get such a refund as if you bought a non- turbo + $400 for the turbo. Then maybe trade it in somewhere else for a proper GTS-T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1900504
Share on other sites

i will defiently suss it all out first thing before i go tomorrow, let u s know when im back in whyalla, catchen up with me brothers at the moment gonna get tanked, tryed to get the missus a pressy before, dam porn shops all shut, was gonna get her a 8-9 incher, any way let yous know what happens.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1900970
Share on other sites

i will defiently suss it all out first thing before i go tomorrow, let u s know when im back in whyalla, catchen up with me brothers at the moment gonna get tanked, tryed to get the missus a pressy before,  dam porn shops all shut, was gonna get her a 8-9 incher, any way let yous know what happens.

What with the 8-9 incher? :) :lol: :(:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102041-new-guy/page/4/#findComment-1901002
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...