Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parts available for Redtop (HR31) RB20 NICS / ECCS - all these bits are STOCK pieces

DSC00029.jpg

Cams, marked inlet and exhaust, minimal wear - $50/pair

Cam gears, suit pretty much any RB twin cam - $10 each

Lifters (only 12 in the pic, all 24 are out) all in good condition - $50/set

Cam mounts (the brackets that hold them in, cant think of the correct name at the moment) - $5 the lot (all brackets for both sides)

NICS Plenum (2 pieces), still with stock butterfly arrangement, with TPS and T/B - $100

Fuel Rail - $20

Injectors (6x) - $30 each (still on fuel rail so can cut a good deal if u want them still attached)

Coil Packs 6x, good condition, all working, with mounting plates - $50 each or $250 for set of 6 (with the coil pack loom)

Coil Pack ignitor, 6mth old - $150

CAS, good conditon - $50

AFM, little bit oily but still working - $50

Red top rocker covers x2 with oil cap - $50/pair

Oil pickup (bendy thing from the sump) - $5

Backing plate for the cam gears: - $10

Water pump - $20

Head - damaged exhaust valve on #6 - $50 complete

OTHER PARTS

LPG tank, 75L, tested 12/04 with brackets - $250

Silvertop ECCS RB20 inlet (top half, no t/b or sensors) - $75

PICS:

DSC00041.jpg

DSC00040.jpg

DSC00039.jpg

DSC00038.jpg

DSC00037.jpg

DSC00036.jpg

DSC00035.jpg

DSC00034.jpg

DSC00033.jpg

DSC00032.jpg

DSC00031.jpg

DSC00030.jpg

SHIPPING: Interstate purchases welcome - freight at buyer's expense

Location: Adelaide, SA

Contact: As i dont get on here much, drop me an email at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102219-rb20-redtop-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...