Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Peter, if i grab one of the first ones you make, and then u implement some new stuff on the next batch, can the first batch be updated, and so on?

definitely. i dont anticipate changing anything to the point it would make older versions not able to do the same thing (with required upgrades) that later ones can. even the 12 pcb's i got made initially for prototyping will be able to do the same stuff the final version can (although at this point they arent gonna do anything except sit in the cupboard).

some things that i was thinking of before:

if we do end up going down the path of having external sensor monitoring, it may be needed to do it on a seperate unit.

also, i see you are having a peak hold function in the unit... i run one of Impakts interfaces, and it has peak hold, but it only seems to be on what is displayed on the screen... i.e. you can't cycle through other readouts that weren't visible on the screen at the time and see their max values...

will you be able to cycle through all the readouts with yours and see their max values, or only the ones that were visible on the display at the time?

for external voltages, all it requires is wiring it up to the board (which already has places for it). you of course have to know or be able to interpret whatever voltage its reading, itll just display it. eg:

V1: 1.34v V2: 2.34v V3: 0.14v V4: 4.34v

V5: 0.00v V6: 4.10v V7: 2.23v V8: 3.07v

for other external things that need other chips(eg k-type thermocouple), these could either be placed on the board (room for 2 k-type thermocouple reader ICs if u use a different capacitor), or more easily, placed on a small prototype board external to the device, thats wired up to the device (eg power, ground, and 2 data lines), which would be a more tidy solution. either way, its do-able.

the reason impakts peaks are only the ones ur watching is u can only stream so many sensors on consult, its not possible to stream all at once.

mine would operate similarly, however theres no setup required as all standard ones that 95% of ecu's support are shown, and the more important of those (not O2, batt, AAC, whose max values are of no interest really due to their transitory nature) which the peak values mean something, are on the peak screen:

display

000kph 0000rpm 00.0v EC:xxx INJ:00% 00oB

AAC:00 O2:.00v 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V

peak

[x]Exit [ ]Reset 000kph 0000rpm EC:xxx

INJ:00% 00oB 000oC AFM:0.00V TPS:0.00V

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Either way mate, this is exactly what i am after, i would prefer to have this in the car at all times, rather then having a Lapytop in the car to get readouts.

BTW, i had a look at your site in regards to the prototype box lcd display and have a question.

Willl these displays be able to be installed in the space bellow the single din in the center dash?

Have you got any more pics of these?

theyre 188mm wide and about 40mm high inc buttons. u could probably mount it to front of the free space easier than inside it, that way u can still press buttons etc. i dont have ur car so i dont really know. the viewing angles may make it hard to read if its too low though

in my opinion on the steering column is best place to put it, it normally wont interfere with ur gauges unless ur steering column is high. other alternatives are the base of windscreen (so ur not too distracted from road) or maybe sun visor?

ill see if i can get a chunk of sticky tape velcro (is that exists) that i can ship some with to aid in mounting

i have a shit pic (dont have decent camera), was taken a while ago...nothing exciting

post-4553-1155253557.jpg

Edited by NewKleer
Can I ask what the point of time trials are? Don't be mistaken, I think this is a fantastic product but am unsure of what this function is used for that you couldn't get at the drag strip?

I definitely have a use for them. In standing start events (hillclimb/supersprints etc) I can use them to evaluate different launch techniques or rpm. besides, the drag strip wouldn't tell you your 0-60, 0-100 or 0-160kph times either.

this unit's peak hold function for rpm, coolant temp, duty cycle would be good for me too. and peak kph would be interesting - eg after Lakeside the other week, everyone wanted to know what speed i was hitting just before the kink on the front straight - the fastest part of the track. I couldn't tell them accurately because you had to be concerntrating on the road at that point, but with this unit i would know exactly what my top speed was.

so they do have legitimate uses for people who use their car on the track. people who do this sort of thing on the road are going to still do it wether they have one of these units or not.

I can't wait for one of these.

while the knock sensor value itself cannot be read via consult, i came across somewhere that said bit 7 of address 0055 will tell u if the ecu is using knock maps or not - so ill see if i can add ability to read this

thanks NewKleer. I suspected it wouldn't be possible, or you would have already included it.

btw, yep adhesive backed velcro tape is available. I think I bought it from Supercheap believe it or not!

Edited by hrd-hr30

thanks for the response Peter, I've been busy renovating. I had a quick look a while back when I first read this thread found those very thermocouplings but didn't mention them as I am unsure of how I would go about making the sensor end into a fitting to go into an oil sandwich plate! And haven't got around to nutting it out or finding an actual screw in sensor that is a thermo coupling

Maybe someone else knows of a way or a product?

Very valid points on the time trials so consider me educated! >_<

ive done options and clear fault codes. doing peak values now.

by the way, im open to suggestions on how time trials should work.

this is my current thinking:

[X]Exit [ ]Start [ ]Clear  Best:xxx.xxxs
Speed:000kph Distance:xxxm Time:xxx.xxxs

obviously assuming i can get distance going with some semblance of accuracy

start will start monitoring speed, etc (and will change to "[x]Stop"), and each time speed = 0, will start timing when speed > 0 till it reaches x (60, 100, whatever). unless u stop it, it will keep timing and if u beat the best, will overwrite that. clear will clear best time.

this is assuming i can measure distance (with some vague amount of accuracy). if not, then something else can do in that space. maybe a progress bar? (0||||||---60) ive no idea

Edited by NewKleer

ive done peak values. just time trials and determine if heat is going to be an issue, and its good to go

will be organising for some testing with sydney people perhaps next weekend (26/27th). i may or may not have time trials stuff finished by then. it would be up to the individual if they wanted to then buy it right then (assuming they bring the bacon with them), but get an update down the track with the final version, or wait till ive finished it (and potentially fixed any problems found in testing) before getting it (either way, those able to help with testing will have first dibs)

send me a pm if ur interested and dont live too far away from blacktown (if u dont know where it is, you probably live too far away :huh:)

ive half-way done time trials

ive opened a group buy thread over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130985

most people who've express interested in this thread have been added to the "interested" list. see that thread for more info.

  • 1 month later...

if u go to a wrecker and cut out a female consult port from a N14 pulsar (most common), u can wire that into ur ECU.

get a hold of a ECU pinout for ur ECU and i can tell you what to wire where. Theres IGN(12V switched), GND, CLK, TX and RX - you can probably find it on the ecu pinout yourself. Theres a 6th wire, CHK, which u can wire up for the dash light flashing diagnostic code stuff, but its not specifically needed for this.

You need to have a stock ECU of course.

This is what each of the wires on the female consult plug is:

Looking into connector

 ________________________ 
/						 | 
|  RX  TX   - -  - -  IGN | 
|						 | 
|  GND CLK  - -  - -   -  | 
\ ________________________|

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...