Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 gtr is running 14psi.........feels good as

some times after 30min some times after 2hours of driving

the car wont boost above 10psi and feels sluggish

i pull the car over restart it and its fine again..........

What the f**k is that???

even when the car was on stock boost it did the same thing......

at first i thaught it was the fuel running though it but y is it alright when i just turn it off and start it again

help please.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102476-r32-gtr-loss-of-boost/
Share on other sites

if it was the fuel pump what other symptoms would there be??

i just had the car returnd to me from ice performance after having some work done and they said it was 100% healthy

as i said the car doesnt do it all the time........it might go for a month with out doing it then all of a suddon there it is again

heat related leak??

if this is so what is actually happening, does the computer relise whats going on and change settings?? cause some times i could be driving for 2 hours and it wont happen on a pretty warm day

other times i could do less then 30 min of driving

and why would simply restarting the car stop whats happening??

iv checked all the piping and did them up with a rachet so der all fine!!

i cant think of what else it cood be?

im changing the fuel filter tonite i got told it could be the fuel filter being blocked let u guys no if anything changes

will solve the problem if i put after martket ecu in??

coz im car will be getting on monday??

Yes, until you munch the pistons (unless you retune). Again, check for ECU error codes. If its going in to limp home (rich and retard) mode, its a pretty good indicator of detonation which will lunch your engine. Don't just stick a new part in without first working out what the problem is.

  • 2 weeks later...

its now booked into get a diagnostic done

few more things i have noticed bout what the car is doing

for about 2 weeks it wouldnt boost above 10psi and felt sluggish

few days ago it stopped, and boosted normally and every thing.......same weather.

today i was driving to work hit a hill was in 4th boost was on 14psi.......all of a sudden it just dropped back to 10psi........car still runs smooth....

i have noticed that it does it more if i am going up hills........

so i guess i have to wait 7 days till the diagnostic is done, then i will know exactly wtf is goin on

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...