Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My clock doesn't work at all (doesn't light up) and my climate control keeps forgetting what it was last set to and starts at 25 every morning. I checked all the fuses under the dash - had two blown but neither fixed it (f**k knows what else has been broken lol, I haven't noticed anything).

Anyway, I noticed the A/C fuse is a large one under the hood. I don't spose it's shared by the clock?? I haven't had time to check the fuses under the hood yet, but it wouldn't surprise me... I'm hoping this is the simple answer and that fuse just needs replacing. Otherwise, all my fuses are fine and I have a larger problem :D

Another thing: I've sometimes got the *clack clack clack* noise when the A/C comes on cos of the dodgy actuator/ louvre mechanism slipping. Is there any chance that problem could have caused the fuse to go (if, indeed it's gone)? And hence I need to solve it to stop the fuse from blowing again? Just a thought..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102530-r33-ac-clock-share-same-fuse/
Share on other sites

My actuator thing makes that noise, but it doesn't affect my clock or A/C. Everything works perfectly but I wouldn't mind knowing what to do to get rid of that noise!

You might want to check the wiring to the back of the dash panel. If the clock isn't plugged in? I beleive the clock backup power is the same as the A/C backup power. (small power given to them when the car is off) So your A/C prob is just one dodgy wire (backup power), which is why it resets. Your clock might have no power at all by the sounds of it.

Hrmm. Yeah hoping it's a simple and obvious broken connection like you said cos this morning the auto elec made it pretty clear the only kinda problem solving he can do on the car is pretty low-level since they don't work on skylines very often. *fingers crossed* I half expect it to be a common connection broken as it would make sense to me if the clock and A/C both use the same line to remember their settings. But then, the clock is dead altogether, not just forgetful, so who knows

They said it was a potential short circuit in the dash. Makes sense, fuses don't go for no reason :P So the A/C memory and the clock are both fixed now. Oh, and in the brief fiddle I had while driving back to work, I no longer have the "clack clack clack" noise when changing the A/C settings. I wonder if maybe the motor that made that noise was looking for a particular voltage/resistance, and if it couldn't find it cos of the short, it just kept trying and stopped after a preset time (the 5-7 seconds everyone seems to hear the noise). Just a thought..

Yeah :mellow:

Though, I found out yesterday that I've now lost any kinda signal from my head unit regardless of volume / signal source or amp settings... maybe the "short" they found was the signal wire - nice one guys! Goin back monday...

hmm i once lost the memory bit of my climate control. if u look a little to the left of your steering wheel theres a little grilly bit (r33 anyhow) behind there is a plug i think its so the A/C knows the temp??? anyhow, if its unplugged, memory no longer functions i found. hope this may help

Wow, very interesting thread.

My R32 has similar dramas. Aircon compressor will not start and after trying two different clocks neither worked.

Might be time to pull the dash apart? I'm not 100% on what to look for but very interested to read that they are possibly related.

when my clock wire burnt out, the climate control would go always to 25deg everytime i turned the car on, as soon as i fixed the clock it was all good. the clock is also connected to that beepin sound when you open the doors with the lights on or the keys in.

dave....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...