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Hicas Locking Option?


nanuGTR
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Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems?? I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

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I ordred hicas lock from japan already. At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not. If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

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I ordred hicas lock from japan already.  At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not.  If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.

Really need your help

thanks

Which lock kit did you get? If it was the Tomei one you disconnect the solenoid valve which (I surmise) stops fluid being pumped tot he rear steering rack in any case.

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Hey everyone!

OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?

Is it ok to do this or will i see problems??  I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.

thanks

attachment-loop.jpg

By looping the oil flow at the rear, you will require high pressure fittings as the solenoids ensure sufficient pressure to move ther rack is availabe at the rear.

A better (easier and cheaper) solution is to do the looping at the front. Straight out of the power steering pump (rear stage) into the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. I will mark up the schematic tonight, but I can't see the power stering cooler mentioned, maybe becaase it's just a loop of aluminium pipe they don't put it on the schematic.

:D cheers :D

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I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:D cheeers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
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I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheeers :)

Have a look at page CH-372 of the R32 GT-R manual. It shows the cooling loop forward of the solenoid valve. As a aside since having my HICAS locked out with the Tomei kit the power steering fluid doesn't get as hot as it once did. This may just be from not being pushed through small orifices in the valves and/or steering rack but is probably also due to the cooler.

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I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

;) cheeers :O

Another question where the blue dot is located, is it already going through the cooler or we have to make it go through the cooler?

*** Never mind i got it all figured out!! Thanks for you help guys!

Edited by nanuGTR
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  • 2 months later...

Alright so i have finally removed my hicas about a month ago. I herd that you can unplug the HICAS ecu and the light on the cluster will stay off and the steering gets a little heavier, is that bad for the power steering pump? Is it better the leave the HICAS ecu plugg IN or OUT?

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Plug it in to have your servo-tronic assistance (steering light at low speeds and gets heavier as speed increases) and take the bulb out of the cluster.

So your saying leave the hicas ecu plugged in and pull out the hicas bulb out of the cluster?

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  • 4 months later...

This may seem like a silly question, but is this the same as the 32gtst? Cause it seems my hicas solenoid thingy has more pipes coming and going from it? I can definately locate the rear hicas lines, and the line coming from the cooling pipe, but there seems to be 2+ pipes going into the solenoid? Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks.

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