Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

firstly can i say what a fantastic forum, information on here is priceless.

im a gts owner from across the water in the UK and very impressed with this set-up . and reading through learning stuff i never thought id learn.

i posted this same topic on the uk owners club, but the response i got was very poor and im hoping maybe yous can help me out

------

c5_1_b.JPG

bought this from ebay.

its in excellent condition apart from this one sided crack.

im planning on repairing it myself ( hopefully ).

can someone or everyone offer my advice on how to, what to do etc etc.

this is the first time ive ever tackled this, and being as brave as i am, my next purchase is a bumper thats needing similar patching up.

i dont believe in paying a body shop to fix something im sure i can manage myself with a bit of time and effort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103344-body-work-maintenance/
Share on other sites

plastibond!

Don't know whether they have it over there, but for that sort of smallish job, that is what I would be using. Its basically a two part epoxy (I think!) paste that you mix up, and it hardens to a fibreglass type strength.

After that you can get the sandpaper out and smooth it out, so that it follows the original angles.. bit of paint and nobody would know.

I've used it to repair small cracks in front bars, and its much easier than using fibreglass for small work.

Yeah my answer to everything like thast is BOG lol BOG it up and sand it back then paint it, i'm not fimilar with Plastibond, but predator makes it sound like its a better bet. Bog is what they use to patch up crack dings in basiclly your body kit (hopefully not all over your car LOL)

But yeah bog is really easy to use, once again its 2 parts, its liek 1:50 and you only add a tiny bit of hardner, it goes of in a few mins so you only mix a little up at a time and then you will be sanding for a while LOL, Bog sets like concrete and is what i would use if i was in your situation (only cuase im fimilar with it, not saying it's the best method)

I hope it helps

Michael

Bog is a product used by panel beaters. Ive used it to make flairs on a RX7 S1, and its a very very easy product to use.

All as you need to do is sand back the area lightly to remove the paint, make sure there is so oil or dirt where yrou goign to bog, so clean it up. Then once you mix the bog, as i said its two parts, you got you putty, then the hardner, mix it up, it'll say on the packet what coulour it shoudl go, then jsut smear it into the crack with a scraper or ne thing really, smooth it out as best as you can on the out side, then leave it 10 or so mins to dry, and start sanding back the bog untill you get the shape you want.

As for sandpaper yeah wet and dry will be fine, use a normal gritt one to take the paint work back, but use a heavy grit for takeing the first few layers of the bogged area you have just done, once its getting down to the shape and leveling out with the other plastic, use a finer grit so you get a smoother finish, then last set is jsut painting.

It's very very very easy, you will be fine.

Bog is basicly an automotive putty, that sets like concrete.

Hope i'm of some help.

Michael

ah bog will be what we have as "body filler" over here?

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/Product...ProductID=11889

thanks michael, youve been a great help. hoping to get started on it tommorrow.

but one final question ( please dont think im daft ), would i be best to remove the mesh before i start this?. its just the screws holding the mesh seem a bit rusted and it may be tricky. but im half saying to myself, "dont be lazy, do this right and remove the mesh, dont skip bits, do it properly".

That looks like the stuff, i just had a 5kg tinn LOL and a tube of hardner, you only need a little bit however.

As for the mesh:

Too tell you the truth by the looks of the picture you don't really need to take it off, i mean the crack are on the out side and the mesh doesnt' really get in the way, however it could become a problem when respraying. You can leave it on if you want.

Personally what i would do, is take it of, either buy new stainless stell mesh if you want silver or stick to what you want, replace the screws with stainless steal so the new ones don't rust, or if its black grill, just paint the stainless ones. Also if you take the mesh back you can easily sand back the "whole" grill, giving it a complete respray, then replace the grill back on with either the old grill or new grill, and new screws.

Thats what i would do.

Be sure to post pictures of your work.

Michael

Edited by Michael_1882

BOG is just polyester resin loaded with a filler like calcium carbonate( talc ). To get the best adhesion to do this repair it would be best to use straight polyester resin. Just check the back of the grill and see if it aint ABS plastic as well. If its ABS or fiberglass youll be ok with the polyester resin for the repair. Just wash it with soap and water and then clean it with acetone to prep the surface before you start the repair. To get polyester resin and hardener go to fiberglass repair places like boat shops or swimming pool places. Follow the instructions and youll do fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...