Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a ride in this thing on the Weekend and is a weapon on stock boost! I dont know what it has had done to it but one thing Nismoid missed to say that it has two more injectors on the air intake pipe before the throttle body so I gather one of chips is to run them

Ooh extra injectors=trouble. Do yourself a favor and pull them off, if you need more fuel up the pressure and if it's still not enough get 6 higher flowing ones.

The problem with injectors b4 the throttle is that you don't know for sure if all 6 cylinders are getting an even amount of fuel, sure the exhaust analyser reads a nice 12:1 but that's a combination of all 6 going out the exhaust, piston no.6 could be way too lean if you know what I mean.

Originally posted by Jay95R33

R31Nizmoid - Cool, if Dr-Drift can work out how to re-map the R33 ones it'd be great.  But I think the write once 84 pin chips are about $70, and the re-writables are about $250 or so !!!

Unless your ECU daughterboard got rid of the 84 pin chip all together and uses a cheaper chip - now that would be cool..

J

I dunno. i don't think it's an 84 pin.

I think it had the same amount of pins as the chip that went into my R31 when i had it and that didn't have 84 little pins on it!

This one is re-writable... it has a sticky thing over the eraser bit so it can be erased... and it's a bit loose so it has been a few times before!

Originally posted by turbomad

Ooh extra injectors=trouble. Do yourself a favor and pull them off, if you need more fuel up the pressure and if it's still not enough get 6 higher flowing ones.

The extra injectors aren't connected up to anything... yet.

They are there, but aren't hooked up to anything.

There are extra sensors all over the engine bay, that means it was a aftermarket ECU at one stage.

Now just the chipped ECU though.

R31Nismoid out of interest how do you plan to access the maps on this chip???

Before buying my powerFC i looked at this sort of thing and steered away from it because there is no daughter board available with a PC interface for tuning the car.

Going onto the make up of the new ECU's the problem or so i am told is that the R32 ecu had a processor chip and a separate ROM (read only memory). This meant that you could easily pull the ROM out, reburn one with new map and try it or even emulate the rom with a separate processor interfaced to a pc through a RS232 interface.

NOW technology obviously progressed when you went from a R32 to R33 and the newer processors NOW come with BUILT in memory. In nissans case the Micro controller used i am guessing from a manufacturing point of view would have OTP (one time programmable) memory. This means that your ECU could no longer be chipped because it meant ripping out the processor aswell. In lamens terms the chip that was the brains of the car now also has the maps stored in it and they are burnt into it upon coming out of the chip manufacturers doors.

As a result i am still VERY interested in how you are going to program this ECU without a special interface program to talk to the chip, a cable etc.

Originally posted by R33NT

R31Nismoid out of interest how do you plan to access the maps on this chip???  

NOW technology obviously progressed when you went from a R32 to R33 and the newer processors NOW come with BUILT in memory. In nissans case the Micro controller used i am guessing from a manufacturing point of view would have OTP (one time programmable) memory. This means that your ECU could no longer be chipped because it meant ripping out the processor aswell. In lamens terms the chip that was the brains of the car now also has the maps stored in it and they are burnt into it upon coming out of the chip manufacturers doors.

The way that my ECU has been done it is such that it it like an R32 or R31 ECU... but the chip is located on a daughter board and is fully tuneable.

Dr_drift has the software to tune it and it's simply a matter of adjusting the map tuning and re-burning another chip.

Very easy.

So it's been split from the factory 'brains of the car with the maps' to separate sections.

I'll be at the dyno day (melb) and i can pull the cover off to show you, i also have to take my Exhaust sheild off to find out what Turbo i've got

:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...