Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

old wheels!

191120054py.jpg

New wheels, Ok well, they are not that fab. They are just stock R34 GTT wheels without the centre caps. For now the caps are on, but i like it without the caps. Ill find something to cover the hub as i think it looks tough. $550 for the four, in damn good condition.

Wrapped in 225/45/17 Hankook Ventus K104's (my first new set of tyres) $165 each fitted and balanced

300120067vu.jpg

Now, only to lower the front 1 or 2 circlip grooves, castor/camber bushes/rear dust covers and a wheel alignment and i am...DONE with suspension :)

When/If in future i decide to get new wheels, Advan Racing RG's in gold, but for now the standard wheels will do. I think silver or gold suits a white car well!

080120063kw.jpg

Will let everyone know about improvements over the next few days, maybe we should have a stagea specific tyre thread as we do carry around a few 100 extra kg's then skylines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103899-wheels-anyone/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Actually, there where a few different wheels on the R34.. On my R34 GTX I've got the (factory standard) AVS 5 spoke ones (8 inch rims), not the standard nissan 6 spoke ones that Alex now has.. I'll put a pic up soon (I'm in the middle of shifting the web hosting of my sites...)

Ian

Edited by ian
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103899-wheels-anyone/#findComment-1910312
Share on other sites

Wow AC, great value for sure, for that price..... geez! Ive been 'looking' for R34 GTT wheels, but couldnt find anything for anywhere near under $1000.

So, Stagea owners, if you hear of some R34 wheels for sale for a 'decent' price, please let me know (if you dont want them that is).

Thanks in advance, Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103899-wheels-anyone/#findComment-1917909
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

$600 for 4 x R34 GTT rims with rubber

I paid $650 to have them fully bubble wrapped etc.

Also (work is) paying $95 via TNT to have them delivered from NSW to Adelaide

from Stan (Satanic).... thanks man! Heaps good to deal with!! :O

Brendan

Edited by Tangles
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103899-wheels-anyone/#findComment-1987391
Share on other sites

siick :)

they are nice wheels for sure :)

Cheers, yeah Im real glad I saw the add from Satanic maybe 5mins afterhe posted them for sale. LOL

Pretty sure I will have the rubber taken off, 1 rim repaired from gutter rash, and then head to our business's powdercoaters for a gunmetal grey powdercoat finish, I think.

Then save for new tyres, so it wont happen too quickly (my wife just got robbed today) due to cash constraints, but thats neither here nor there I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103899-wheels-anyone/#findComment-1987824
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...