Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does nissan put in oil restrictors to the turbos on the n1 engines? I have changed from a standard block to an n1 and am using n1 oil pump with 34 n1 turbos. connecting this all with my standard r33 gtr oil lines. All im looking to know is that when a r33 or 34 n1 rolled out of the factory were they fitted with oil restrictors..?

Good question! Can I also add to your question by asking who makes said oil restriction kits if the N1 blocks don't already have one fitted?

Tomei...contact Ian @ Hi Octane....or in QLD Mark @ Godzilla Motorsport.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Does nissan put in oil restrictors to the turbos on the n1 engines? I have changed from a standard block to an n1 and am using n1 oil pump with 34 n1 turbos. connecting this all with my standard r33 gtr oil lines.  All im looking to know is that when a r33 or 34 n1 rolled out of the factory were they fitted with oil restrictors..?

What oil restrictors are you talking about?

The one between the block and the head?

The N1 blocks we have received did not come fitted with oil restrictors, you have to fit them.

Or the restrictor in each tubo oil inlet?

The new R34 N1 ball bearing turbos we have received did not come fitted with oil feed restrictors, you have to fit them. Used ones did.

:) cheers ;)

All BB turbo's require a restrictor of some sort.

Or else the turbo will get to much oil and blow seals etc.

The restrictor is usually in the banjo fitting on the oil lines running to each turbo.

Hope thats what you are asking.

  • 1 month later...
All BB turbo's require a restrictor of some sort.

Or else the turbo will get to much oil and blow seals etc.

The restrictor is usually in the banjo fitting on the oil lines running to each turbo.

Hope thats what you are asking.

Just found this post when doing a search on a question that I'm looking for the answer to. It's essential to fit an oil feed restrictor to the turbo, but is the one i have purchased in the link below suitable for my GT30/40R?

http://www.himni-racing.com/index.php?main...products_id=508

(in my setup, i'm using an N1 oil pump on an rb25det)... If this is installed, is it still essential to put a restrictor in one of the two oil feeds on the block, going to the head?

Edited by silman

Im pretty sure all BB turbos (genuine ones) from garrett and hks have inbuilt restrictors. Therefore no need for this restrictor for your "mismatched laggy" gt3040r. Disco could confirm this. Let us know how this turbo goes cause apparently, they are laggy :no:

Please take the time to read my post carefully and reply only if you have information relating to this question. There's a lot of talk about GTBB turbo's having restrictors inbuilt that's clear from the amount of threads on the board. My post clearly specifies though, that I have an N1 oil pump, and i have this external oil feed restrictor.

Sydneykid or someone with first hand experience, can you please confirm that with all RB engines, is a restrictor on the block still required if a 1.5mm turbo oil feed restrictor for the turbo is in place? (1.5mm in my RB25 application). Does the location of the restrictor make a difference to oil starvation at the sump? Or does the restrictor HAVE to be installed in the block, leadng to the head ONLY? cheers.

Edited by silman
Please take the time to read my post carefully and reply only if you have information relating to this question. There's a lot of talk about GTBB turbo's having restrictors inbuilt that's clear from the amount of threads on the board. My post clearly specifies though, that I have an N1 oil pump, and i have this external oil feed restrictor.

Sydneykid or someone with first hand experience, can you please confirm that with all RB engines, is a restrictor on the block still required if a 1.5mm turbo oil feed restrictor for the turbo is in place? (1.5mm in my RB25 application). Does the location of the restrictor make a difference to oil starvation at the sump? Or does the restrictor HAVE to be installed in the block, leadng to the head ONLY? cheers.

You sure are confused…………….let’s see if I can fix that…………….

1. There is no relationship between the restrictor in the block to decrease the oil flow to the head and the restrictor in the turbo oil feed.

2. The turbo oil feed is plumbed into the block BEFORE the head feed oil restrictor. So the size of the head feed oil restrictor has no effect what so ever on the turbo oil feed.

3. The size of the head feed oil restrictor is ONLY dependant on the oil pump used and the RPM that the engine sees. The turbo (plain or ball bearing) has ZERO effect on the size of the head feed oil restrictor.

4. On RB’s, all ball bearing turbos require an oil flow restrictor because the pipework and fittings are designed for plain bearing turbos. Plain bearing turbos require significantly more oil flow than ball bearing turbos.

5. Ball bearing, water cooled turbos require less oil flow than plain bearing oil cooled turbos

6. SOME ball bearing turbos come with oil flow restrictors standard, some DON’T. Some have add in restrictors, separate parts that you can remove. Some have the oil feed drilled to the right size (ie; no external restrictor is required). Look in the oil feed on the turbo core, if the hole is larger than 2 mm there is no restrictor. If the hole is smaller than 2 mm, then that is the restrictor you are looking at.

Hope that helps

:D cheers :D

thanks for clearing that up. I'll take the head off, and install a 1.5mm restrictor in one of the feeds in the block whilst the engine is out of the car. By the way, here's a picture of my turbo. It looks like it doesn't have the restrictor installed (does this seem to be the case from what you see?), but i'll use the one i bought pictured above at this fitting.

sturbocleaned6ku.th.jpg.sturbocleaned3py.th.jpg

and the other side;

sturbocleaned6xf.th.jpg

Edited by silman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...