Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took my R32 NA in to get some new brake pads today and after having a lot of trouble finding some brake pads the guys decided R33 brake pads would fit....

So i left them with it and came back and they told me the brake rotors were legally too small and i couldnt drive it on them. Now the problem is they dont know much about imports and cant figure out what rotors i will need nor what size is meant to be under them. Im guessing maybe ceffys or s13 would run the same rotors as non turbos but truthfully....i dont know shit. Just wondering if some one can sum it up for me or suggest what rotors/ where i can get them. I tried searching but there was too much confusion.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104005-na-r32-brake-rotors-help/
Share on other sites

The question is Rb20de or Rb25de?

The rb20de's have small brakes, and your car would have been complied this way, and came from Nissan this way, So the place your going to doesnt sound like they know what theyre on about. A r33 rb20e have small brakes too, but this is all the car needs.

Best bet is to just get new pads and not to worry about it, obviously Nissan thought the brakes were sufficient, so obviously they are.

Dayne

oh right. Thanks, but couldnt have the rotors worn down a shitload?

They told me they were 8.4 and if i remember right have to be over 9 or some shit to be legal?

I wish they had just put the pads in, the brakes were working fine but just a little squeal

yeah your discs can wear down if your pads are worn down too far or if they are quite harsh.

the reason why they have a minimum thickness is because if your break discs get too thin they have a higher chance of warping or even snapping.

yeah after you replace your discs and calipers you should notice a good improvement on braking.

on my r33 rb20e i had single pot calipers. so i upgraded to gts25 brakes so i have 2 pot calipers and bigger discs.

for new discs have you been in to your local car parts shop like repco and seen what they can do for you?

Oh right, nah i havnt been into any of those stores as the place i took it too should be ringing around town for me. Apprently they are just ordering straight from DBA which is where im guessing any local store near me would get them from.

Hopefully they can pick some up from them. I thought about upgrading brakes but i dont think the ATMO needs any better braking power. The stock ones do the job for the power it puts out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...