Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering if the Stagea can SAFELY be run in RWD like the GTR's by removing the ATTESA fuse or something similar. Or is it much harder / impossible to do like removing front drive shafts like the R34 GTR.

And also how many of you have played around with the AWD lock button on the dash. I'm assuming that all it does is lock it into full time AWD. Noticed much difference????

Thanks again

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/
Share on other sites

The ATTESSA system in the Stagea S! is like the R33GTR, NOT like the R32GTR. This means it has residual hyrdraulic pressure, so pulling the fuse does nothing.

Do a search, Brad explains what happened to his Stagea when someone tried the R32GTR trick.

The 4wd switch is good for snow and ice and wet grass. Do a search, it was a much discussed subject when we early adoptors got our Stageas 18 months or so back.

:( cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1933428
Share on other sites

warning, dont believe those first few posts on that thread ska mentions, its gonna damage the clutch packs pulling a fuse, and even bleeding the attessa line does bugger all, except smoke clutch packs on a dyno.

i explained my method in the thread, which i believe is the best/safest way of running rwd, though maybe removing the front driveshaft is easy except u gotta take of the clutch slave cylinder off the gearbox to get it out, or remove the clutch hydraulic line from the slave.

mine was suprisingly grippy running 350rwhp and held better than my previous 2wd car with the rb26 in it (commodore). i think they have alot better suspension setup and only drama was i snapped an axle on the rear diff from launching off a set of lights, as the diff is non-lsd and all the power is going through one wheel only, but i chucked in the gtr lsd and its much better, though i havent used it stuff all since the diff conversion.

in about 3-4 weeks when mines tuned we shall see what power these stageas need to wreck gtr axles/uni joints :P

i just wanna see if the stagea will drift nicely in 4wd and ill try 2wd also.

good luck

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1933858
Share on other sites

do NOT drive around on tarmac with the centre diff lock enabled. you will get wind up in the driveshafts and diffs and will eventually break one,if not the transfer case as well.

use the diff lock on slippery surfaces such as dirt,sand or snow ONLY.

you can most likely fit an ATTESSA control module,which will give you the option of a more rear-biased split. I'll be trying this fairly soon on my car.

Justin...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1933977
Share on other sites

Ok thanks guys. SKA I did try to use the search but it wasn't working. Kept telling me to try again in 30secs because of flood controll or something like that. I tried for ages and gove up posting this thread. I haven't even tried the centre diff lock yet and can't really see when I would.

fergo308 let us know how you go with the ATTESSA control module. I love the AWD but would still like to get it into RWD on occasion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1934132
Share on other sites

Brad, does the LSD centre drop into the standard diff casing?

I'm still scared to launch my car off the lights in case I break a driveshaft. It doesn't help that my car was fitted with a ceramic button clutch when it was converted.

Regardless, it always bogs down anyway, so harder launches will be required when I wanna run some times.

Oh yeah, and I might be attending the SAU dyno day next month, but it's a 2wd dyno. They've said removing driveshafts will be part of the cost of the run, but now that you mention removing the slave cylinder or hydraulic line throws a new spanner into the works. I'm assuming they know this and it's the same as R33 GT-Rs?

Cheers

Nick T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1934865
Share on other sites

Brad, does the LSD centre drop into the standard diff casing?

I'm still scared to launch my car off the lights in case I break a driveshaft.  It doesn't help that my car was fitted with a ceramic button clutch when it was converted. 

Regardless, it always bogs down anyway, so harder launches will be required when I wanna run some times.

Oh yeah, and I might be attending the SAU dyno day next month, but it's a 2wd dyno.  They've said removing driveshafts will be part of the cost of the run, but now that you mention removing the slave cylinder or hydraulic line throws a new spanner into the works.  I'm assuming they know this and it's the same as R33 GT-Rs?

Cheers

Nick T.

hey nick, yep the gtr diff centre drops str8 in, as its exactly the same housing except the stagea one has the mountings for all the attessa pumps above the diff, which makes it a bolt back in job. im not sure about trying to use stagea axles with the gtr diff as i never tried it personally.

removing the clutch slave cylinder is only 2 bolts and then pull the front shaft off and then bolt the slave back on (dont need to release the clutch fluid or take the line off or nuthin) and away u go. (just move it to the side while u pull the shaft out from under the car)

all up removing the shaft and slave would take 10-15 min max.

hope it helps

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1935226
Share on other sites

the ONLY way to safely make the car RWD is to drop the shaft.

Its honestly not that hard people. 4 bolts and away you go. I was having a look around yesterday.

When i get an LSD i will make the car RWD for some fun, i know ill still have those extra 4wd kg's but we shall see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105015-rwd-stagea/#findComment-1944277
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...