Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

heheh, a few days ago I sent Do-Luck USA an email asking about the kits and rims which they forwarded to a company called Boom-Enterprises.

I got a reply just now about the kits..



hello sir,

we were given your e-mail by do-luck company.

we are taking the part of the export division of do-luck company.

first, let us introduce ourselves.

we are boom-enterprises inc. is the trading company which specializes in

high performance parts in japan.

we are not only doing export & import business, but also create our

original parts.

please try www.boom-enterprises.com we can provide you everything what

you want from japan.

we are very sorry to say that we cannot provide you the parts with your

payment in your country currency.

we are only accepting the payment in japanese yen by bank wire transfer.

and here are the bank information for your wire transfer (remittance) as

follows,

beneficiary's name : BOOM ENTERPRISES INC.

beneficiary's address : 4-45-24 Higashi-Yamata,Tsuzuki-Ku,Yokohama-Shi

224-0023 JAPAN.

beneficiary's account number : 168137

account with bank : The Yokohama Shinkin Bank

branch name : Takada

branch address : 124 Takada-Cho,Kouhoku-Ku,Yokohama-shi,JAPAN.

swift code : YOKO JP JM

note : When wire transferring payment to above the account,

       Please be sure to inform your bank the "remit charge" &

       "Paying Bank Charge" must be paid by the sender.

        Please do not deduction in your payment.

please see below the price and delivery for the do-luck items that you

have enquired about.

for bnr32 gt-r

do-luck t-2 front bumper

list price : jpy85,000-

your buying cost : jpy68,000-

delivery time : 2-weeks.

do-luck t-2 side skirts

list price : jpy80,000-

your buying cost : jpy64,000-

delivery time : 2-weeks.

do-luck t-2 rear bumper

list price : jpy80,000-

your buying cost : jpy64,000-

delivery time : 2-weeks.

all prices are ex., boom warehouse in yokohama-city.

those are the best price that we can do for you.

and it is not including the freight charge to your country.

we cannot make up an estimate of shipping cost for you,

because we need your address and nearest your airport in order to figure

the freight charge to you.

if you have freight forwarder in japan, you can dispatch a truck driver

to our warehouse in order to pick them up.

also we need what you are interested in. and then, we will fax you

proforma invoice.

i hope the above will be of interest, and i look forward to hearing from

you soon.

kind regards,

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Shinnosuke Saitoh

BOOM ENTERPRISES, inc.

4-45-24 higashi-Yamata,Tsuzuki-Ku,Yokohama-Shi 224-0023 JAPAN.

e-mail  : [email protected]

web site : www.boom-enterprises.com

-----Original Message-----

From: Tom P - Topaz [mailto:[email protected]]

Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 6:12 PM

To: [email protected]

Subject: EOI: BNR32 body kit

Hi Do-Luck USA,

I am interested in the T2 3-piece body kit for the R32 GTR and was

wondering if you had a distributor in Australia (preferrably Perth, Western

Australia) who stocked the kit?. I am also interested in the Double-Six rims as

well.

I send this as an expression of interest because I am considering

getting

the kit in a year or two.

Thanks

Tom

The price ($196,000 YEN) for the kit converted to AUD is ~$2,233 not including shipping.

I am yet to reply, but I still want to wait a while to have the money to buy the kit and I have no idea how to pay in the way Mr. Saitoh has described because they want payment in YYYEN!

heheh, a few days ago I sent Do-Luck USA an email asking about the kits and rims which they forwarded to a company called Boom-Enterprises.

I got a reply just now about the kits..

The price ($196,000 YEN) for the kit converted to AUD is ~$2,233 not including shipping.

I am yet to reply, but I still want to wait a while to have the money to buy the kit and I have no idea how to pay in the way Mr. Saitoh has described because they want payment in YYYEN!

Just go to your bank (ANZ whatever) and do an international bank transfer in Yen... simple. It'll cost around $30 to do.

I've heard Works Auto accessories are in alot of trouble.

Autobarn will have a shipment of GENUINE uras bodykits real soon - container arrives in 5 weeks so I am told by them.

Full kit will retail around AUD1000 for FRP, up to 2K for the plastic type.

I am in talks with a retailer here in the west so they can distribute for autobarn, hopefully it wont be long :)

Just go to your bank (ANZ whatever) and do an international bank transfer in Yen... simple. It'll cost around $30 to do.

I've heard Works Auto accessories are in alot of trouble.

Awesome :)

What do you mean in trouble?, like, Sexual misconduct with a 2" system?

Awesome :)

What do you mean in trouble?, like, Sexual misconduct with a 2" system?

Haha... no, but pretty close to? It's not my place to say on here, so drop us a PM.

can you guys link some of these kits? Bomex, Trial etc...

Im all up for saving a grand and a half if I can get a nice looking kit for an R32.

Nothing too low and nuhsing tuu veeilzide (coz they look crazy German)

can you guys link some of these kits? Bomex, Trial etc...

Im all up for saving a grand and a half if I can get a nice looking kit for an R32.

Nothing too low and nuhsing tuu veeilzide (coz they look crazy German)

go to a shop in Wangara mate. they gona give me a bomex kit, fitted, moulded and painted, for $1300

they also have veilside for $2600

both are front back and both side pieces

cannot remember the name of the shop though gona try to find it later

go to a shop in Wangara mate. they gona give me a bomex kit, fitted, moulded and painted, for $1300

they also have veilside for $2600

both are front back and both side pieces

cannot remember the name of the shop though gona try to find it later

yes please do post up their name.

When are you getting this done?

would love to see some pics of the finished product, and hear your impressions of it

Linear Concepts

Unit 2 / 25 Buckingham Drive Wangara

I know them, I got a blue stripe put on my TX3 there. Done by an alright looking chick too :(

I remember seeing a van with ads all over it and one was for body kits :D

I found an example of what I want....sort of

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=r32+gtr

Page 1 and again on Page 5

THEN ON PAGE 6 Alex j B has posted the car with the T2 Do Luck Kit

OMG that is sexy!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...