Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

Last week I got a Xtreme HD cushioned button plate clutch installed on my skyline - my uncle fitted the clutch , machined the flywheel and I watched him do it, everything was good.

Drove the car for a few days, fine gripped well.

This afternoon driving it, went into second and put the power down and the revs just shot up. After a bit more driving, slippage in every gear. Drove it to my uncles workshop, he was busy, so had to drive home and the clutch got so bad, it was slipping off the line in 1st.

I am so dissapointed. Ive waited 2 months to get my car back on the road and have spent all my Money on this clutch + fitment and its not gripping.

To add to that, the XTREME distributer is not answering my calls/messages.

Any suggestions of what could be the problem. it shifts fine, theres a brand new master cylinder. Clutch pedal feels normal.

help appreciated

Regards

Kim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105026-brand-new-clutch-slipping-on-r33/
Share on other sites

It could be a quite few things.

It sounds to me like there's a problem with the pressure plate possibly being faulty, or incorrect one supplied. Either that or the wrong clutch plate was supplied. There CAN be a whole bunch of other possible causes ( contamination, incorrect flywheel machine, pressure plate bolts not tight / broken, and so on ) but they are less likely to be the problem. Also worth checking is the clutch pedal adjustment to make sure you have freeplay.

After that, there's only one real way to find out !!

Did you drive it sensibly for 500Km to let everything bed in ?

And do you have enough free travel at the top of the pedal ?

We have fitted and sold dozens of these things with no problem. However , that is not to say they may have made a boo boo .

Cheers

Ken

How do you mean free travel?

I've been through 2 slave cylinders in my r32 gts.. I'm using a HD clutch from daiken.. wondering if that is what's chewing the slave's out..

I've been told to adjust the threaded rod behind the pedal.. if so, which way? and where should my takeup point be.. it's currently about 2-3 inches off the floor

Mine did the same thing. Bought the car with a dead clutch (really heavy single), replaced the clutch, fine for three weeks, then started slipping... then it got worse and worse till it was practically undriveable.

Shortened the rod on the slave cylinder, and it came good again. A month or so later now, and it's slipping in 3rd and 4th if I put the boot in.

I tried to adjust that pedal-rod, but it wouldn't budge! (removed split-pin and all) My mechanic thinks there's something else wrong though, because my pedal has about 3mm free play, then it's just stiff... all the way to the floor. Takeup seems to be right near the top of the pedal-motion.

I'm stuffed for ideas, and it sounds like my clutch has been nuked in the process. =-[

cool. not..

is the pedal heaps tight up the top??

ie. is there any freeplay.

because ive seen it heaps where the pedal isnt adjusted properly and the clutch mastercyl "pumps up" holding the clutch on abit..

you need to back the pushrod off abit to obtain a small amount of freeplay :lol:

By "back it off"... it appears that rotating it will drive the rod into the master cylinder more, and thusly give the pedal some freeplay before it pushes on it. Is this what you mean? I'm quite keen to give this a try!

Any tips for doing this? I had a pair of multigrips on the gripped part of the rod, but it didn't want to turn. Do I need to remove the master cylinder first or anything? (or was it just the hyrdrolic pressure stopping me from winding it in?)

Cheers!

I thought mine was dead flat too. Sent it down to victoria to the supplier who i bought it off and turns out its not flat at all, this has caused the clutch to be fcuked so some1's up for a new clutch and the cost of the shipping, and it sure as hell aint me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Resizing injectors in Nistune can be done a couple of ways, and there are a couple of ways that you can make a mess of it. The tuner needs to be really aware of the effects of whichever approach he uses (either K, or TIM). They are both easy enough to "get the injector size right" to run the engine. But little details like old start enrichment and hot start are affected differently, depending on which boxes you check.
    • Pretty safe to say almost everyone that has tuned their own car has experienced this issue. The difference being that we have our laptop in the car and when it happens, it's literally 10 seconds of tuning to sort it.  Would you be happy to plug in your laptop and sort this yourself? It is a very simple process and there is no risk of harming your engine (if you are worried about that). 
    • Yeah thats the next step now, either they wil or i will take out for a drive to work and go straight their after work and see is we get the same issues 🤞  thought i try my luck here too, never know someone else might have had the same issue but thanks for the reply 
    • Basically your tuner needs to drive it for the 30 min (or whatever) to create the same conditions then check the ECU settings and sensors at that time. They may not be excited to because that takes them 30 min rather than just opening the bonnet and seeing the problem straight away.... Hot start is generally not as tricky as cold start, but there would be a table for fuel enrichment vs coolant temp as a starting point
    • Yeah, they all cant say anything for sure as everything is working fine . Said unable to find an issue untill it stops again. Could mist likely be CAS wiring or IAS valve issue but again not 100%
×
×
  • Create New...