Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys,

I want to put on my Momo wheel. So this afternoon,

I managed to get my steering wheels off, piece of cake.

Saw the centre hexagonal locking nut. Sprayed some WD-40 on it, and it wont budge at all..... bugger.... @#$%

I tried using socket 17mm (the largest one I had) but won't fit. I use 3/4" but seems to be just a little bit loose there. Maybe this cause a bit of difficulty turning the socket wrench and the nut won't unlock.

Anyone can help me, whoever done this before, what socket size you use? Metric or Inches system? Is it 18mm or 19mm????

Thx.

Rianto

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10512-steering-wheel-centre-lock-nut/
Share on other sites

Gday rs73

I have done this a while ago when I had trouble with my Hicas light coming on. Steering angle sensor was the problem.

I am fairly sure that I used a 3/4 socket. You need a bit of leverage to undo it and I used a Torque wrench with about a 600mm handle.

I am not sure from your comments, but if the socket is stuck on the nut then it certainly is too large.

Once the nut moved I counted the number of turns that it took to come off completely so that it went back on the same.

You will need a steering wheel puller after it has come off. Don't be tempted to bash it with a hammer or something.

Make sure you have a boss kit for our R33 otherwise you will have the Hicas warning light coming on and it will be disabled.

Hope this helps and other guys may be able to confirm socket size etc.

Good luck

El Bee

Thank's guys...

I did use 3/4" but it's a bit loose, probably need to find a metric 19mm socket as 3/4" is 19.05 mm, that .05 mm might make a difference. And of course, I got HICAS boss kit.

I don't have 600mm wrench handle, so might be a good idea to find one, mine is short only like 200mm so I guess won't help me give more torque to the nut. And I'll try spraying more WD40 again, may not be long enough last time...

mine's a lousy socket set bought $27 at bunnings. I dun think it will hold that much, I'm more worried in breaking the lock in the steering mechanism (when you turn off ignition) than the rachet itself. might need someone to hold the steering steady for me.

19mm socket and some muscle. Done it a few times on my car.

To get the wheel off, undo the nut, but not all the way. Sit in the seat with your hands either side of the wheel, and try to pull it off 1 hand at a time, so you are forcefully wiggling and pulling the thing. Thats what I have to do with mine, you cant pull it straight off, have to wiggle it. Leaving the nut on stops you pulling it off and smashing yourself in the face with it or something else unpleasant.

This seems to sound very difficult to do... how did those guys at nissan put these steering wheels on our cars, pound 'em in with a huge sledge hammer???

If after all means I still can't get the centre wheel lock nut off or can't yank off the steering wheels, anyone know a good place in Melbourne who has done R33 with HICAS? I dun wanna some "yea, we can do that - they're all the same" backyard accessories shop around the corner mess up my HICAS sensors...

  • 4 weeks later...

I finally gave up and ran to the local mag & tyre shop. They had this "HUGE" massive 60 or 80 cm long wrench, and angle adjustable. Took them 1 minute to undo the centre nut!

They finished off the installation and cost me a $20 total, nice blokes from sth africa where they came from.

The end result is:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...