Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, searched everywhere but still cnt find out what clutch will best suit my application.

Im going to do a conversion soon from auto to manual r33 rb25det, im already sold on a ogura 4.8kg light flywheel.

Im looking into buying a clutch that will hold 250-300rwkw as thats what im aiming for.Car will mainly be for the street, and the occasional drag strip, will try and do alot of curcuit work though if i can, drifting probably not.

Im in new zealand, is there any way of getting hold of the clutch guru thats in the sticky???

thanks

Hey guys, searched everywhere but still cnt find out what clutch will best suit my application.

Im going to do a conversion soon from auto to manual r33 rb25det, im already sold on a ogura 4.8kg light flywheel.

Im looking into buying a clutch that will hold 250-300rwkw as thats what im aiming for.Car will mainly be for the street, and the occasional drag strip, will try and do alot of curcuit work though if i can, drifting probably not.

Im in new zealand, is there any way of getting hold of the clutch guru thats in the sticky???

thanks

Yeah, there is. Ring him... Just add all the area codes on to it. He has sent clutchs around the world, if you ask him he is sure to tell the story. He will probably recomend a stock fly wheel tho. They tend to be softer, so are more bity.

cool ill keep that in mind:), i'll eventually get to 250rwkw im hoping by the end of year, would it be best to plan ahead and get a twinplate now?, or will single plate do even for the power im aiming for in the future?just heard that twins are hard to get used to at the start?

cool ill keep that in mind:), i'll eventually get to 250rwkw im hoping by the end of year, would it be best to plan ahead and get a twinplate now?, or will single plate do even for the power im aiming for in the future?just heard that twins are hard to get used to at the start?

Jim told me my clutch should be able to handle 800 fly wheel hp... Its a single plate sprung 5 puck. 3500lb nismo pressure plate, but hey. Thats what he said it would hold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...