Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK can any one tell me where to go from here!!?? ..

I've got an RB20det in my s13 silvia, and the bloody thing wont fire on cyl NO.6..

I've swapped spark plugs, coil-packs and ignition loom, but no luck..

I dont think its the injector coz i can smell fuel in the xzorst when the car is at idle ..

Now i'm thinkin the next logical step would be crank angle sensor ?? or dare i say it, ECU? .. considering it cost me over 2k for some half-wit at a repco service center to wire up the stock ecu i'll be less than impressed if i have to throw it in the bin.. (dont even think about tellin me i payed too much for the wiring job, I'm only too aware that i got f*kt over..)

So where to from here guys?

i would very much like to stop waistin money on my piece-o-sh*t silvia and have a functional vehilce again ..

I'v asked in the maintenance section but got a grand total of zero (0) responses so any feed back would be just dandy ...

peace

Marty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105381-callin-all-rb-gurus/
Share on other sites

its quite simple really....take out the one thats giving you the trouble....earth the spark plug out and crank the engine to see if it sparks......if it dont jam a screw driver in the end and place it about 5mm away from an earth and crank it....if there is no spark then change the coil with a known good one then test it again......if it still dont spark check the wiring if its all good then swap one of the pins from the ecu to the module(eg number 3...a known good signal) in to the no 6 one then check it....if no spark then the module has died.....if it does then your ecu is dead

OK i'm gettin spark.. earthed the plug and got a spark.

pulled out the injectors this arv to get em tested .. interested to see what sort of condition there in ..

thay all look pretty crappy but the suspected faulty injector appears to be in better condition then the other 5?.. i know looks can be deceptive so i'll have em all tested ..

thanx for all the feed back ..

i'll keep ya posted

marty

Being an RB20 the chances are the injector boots are cracked.

Check out the connection, it may be corroded causing little or no connection. I had this issue with injector no. 3.

Coventry's/Motor traders have bosch plugs for ~$16 each OR you can buy another brand that come in a 2pack for $16, I went the cheaper route and replaced all for ~$50. :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...