Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I want to go to wsid, but I want to break into high 12's....

At the moment Hybrid FMIC, filter, mongrel exhaust, locked diff, 4 puck clutch, fuel pump 040??, Dr Drift Ecu, r33 turbo,no interior bar two front seats. 255 rears on 17's. adj cam gears to go on (180rwkw?)

I'm curious if this will achieve a high 12, or do I have a little bit to go yet???

What are your experiences in breaking 13's???

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105416-173rwkw-32-gts-t-14/
Share on other sites

My R32 when i had the RB20 in ran a few 12.9 @116mph on 225/45/17" street tyres.

It only made 188RWKW with a small hi-flow turbo, intercooler, 3" exhaust and ECU, so it CAN be done you just need another 15rwkw or so.

That MPH is MASSIVE for only 188rwkw!

That MPH is MASSIVE for only 188rwkw!

Yeah, the MPH is a bit higher than my VL which had 200rwkw and ran 12.6@112MPH.

Ill try and get the timeslip up, my car was car# 600, i cant find the actual 12.9 with 116mph, but here is a 12.9 sec slip and one when i started pulling 116mph.

post-11223-1139734276.jpg

sky30, thats a brilliant result

the best i managed was 13.1 @ 108mph with 225/50/16 street tyres and standard suspension. That was on about my 8th run of the day.

i was making 207rwkw with a hks2530 and ~1.25bar

but sky30's time makes my efforts look dismal!

173rwkw = 13.3@106mph (2.3 60ft) on 205 tyres R33 gtst. 33 deg ambient.

Dyno numbers don't tell you everything. I recently thought of tracking the time over the x axis for rpm. This way you can track the accelleration times under load in each gear. This will directly translate to a relative 1/4 mile prediction as things like rotational mass greatly affect accelleration and can be shown using this measurement, without it you can't see the benifit. The physical weight of the car and areodynamics are then the only factors left to associate.

Next time you go to the dyno get your stop watch out and see how long it takes to make the power. Bolt in a lightweight flywheel or lighter rims, change the diff ratio and see just how big an influence these things can have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...