Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, but the question is can you ever fit 65L into the tank :P

I usually fill up before the orange light turns on, or just as it turns on. With the new fuel pump and upgrades, I'm afraid to even let it sit at the 1/4 mark - it's always above half tank.

Must get a tune soon :(

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what power you making bunta?

retune :P

wifey wont like it;

ive already spent hundreds of dollars on tunes (switched exhaust, retune was another 300 on top of the origianl 600)

surely for that amount of money, it wouldnt just be a power tune :(

was done at mercury

Spooks I make 200 rwkw on the dot, However I think that having the RB25 in the lighter car (R32) would lend its self to better ecconomy, I find a lot of the time I am using around half the throttle that I used in the R33 for similar accleleration (R33 also made less power)

Yeah, but the question is can you ever fit 65L into the tank :P

I usually fill up before the orange light turns on, or just as it turns on.  With the new fuel pump and upgrades, I'm afraid to even let it sit at the 1/4 mark - it's always above half tank.

Must get a tune soon :(

How could you not fit 65L into a 65L tank.

When the light comes on..you should be able to drive approx 100km more before the car will stall.

I'm just curious as to how people are measuring their distances. Surely you don't just fill it up and then read the odometer when the light come on.....that's just silly.

The only accurate way to measure the right distance is to fill it up completely to the brim and then drive 100km. Then pull into the nearest servo and fill it up to the brim again. Note down the number of litres you have put in....it's as simple as that.

The car is heaviest on a full tank so the fuel economy is its worst when the tank is full. Don't cain the crapper out of it for 100ks either, and don't baby it...just normal driving...boost it regularly. Then post up your results. I am willing to help those in need but no-one has taken me up on the offer yet.

The only reason I suggested the tune was because on my old r33 gtst I was pushing 300kms out of a tank, thanks past the light and waiting till it coughed.

Anyway I bough a SAFC and took it into Mercury for a tune and BAM gained 15rwkw and consistently got 550-600kms out of the tank!

My problem is that the skyline only get driven hard. If I was going for fuel economy, I'll just drive the office prius, it get over 1000k/tank and take 500 metres to stop from 100k/hrs. Tyre are as hard as Steel.

But if you have ongoing bad fuel eco, get a smoke test done and a good tune will fix all. but $500-750 in difference of fuel eco, buys alot of fuel. Oh wait I don't have to pay for mine.!!!

I had a similar problem with bad fuel economy and fuel smell.

I traced the problem back to the aussie fuel filler/nossle from the compliance process. seems the dodgey bastards hadnt fitted it properly and it had become slightly loose and alot of fuel was evaporating whilst the engine was running.

I simply removed it, cleaned it down and used a strong fuel rated sealant such as sikaflex. I got alot better fuel economy and lost the fuel smell.

matty

The only reason I suggested the tune was because on my old r33 gtst I was pushing 300kms out of a tank, thanks past the light and waiting till it coughed.

Anyway I bough a SAFC and took it into Mercury for a tune and BAM gained 15rwkw and consistently got 550-600kms out of the tank!

Hmm maybe a SAFC is the way to go.

I have a stock GTT and was getting 400-450kms (mixed city and freeway) before the light came on, a few months after now getting 350 to maybe 400, pure city driving though. Dont know whether this sounds right but I do know other GTT's, especially modded ones are getting more. I drive OFF boost almost 99% of the time.

So yes, Id like to know whether there is a fix for this? perhaps a SAFC might be the way to go. Ill also chuck it on the dyno to see how the figures turn out.

The only accurate way to measure the right distance is to fill it up completely to the brim and then drive 100km. Then pull into the nearest servo and fill it up to the brim again. Note down the number of litres you have put in....it's as simple as that.

The car is heaviest on a full tank so the fuel economy is its worst when the tank is full. Don't cain the crapper out of it for 100ks either, and don't baby it...just normal driving...boost it regularly. Then post up your results. I am willing to help those in need but no-one has taken me up on the offer yet.

That's deffinetly the best way to measure your fuel consumption, i did a couple of Thursday's ago had 11 pound, 35k's highway the rest was fairly spirited, pulled into the servo and got 12.3 L i was pretty happy with that, is this more what your trying to get spook's

within the powerfc, drop the injector duty cycle down by xx %

remember, it will run leaner across the board (so more knock, perhaps?), but is the easiest way of 'retuning' it without taking it to a tuner ?

Anyway, i couldnt be bothered reading all the 3 pages, so it may help ?

Or drive it off boost. with my car i managed 450 city kms when keepin it under 0.2 bar of boost. boring as hell to drive. Mind you the other day i ended up going for a bit of a thrash and did 200kms on a tank (whoops)

oh and managed to chew up most of the fuel when i was at oran in under 100kms :P

happens when your duty cycle hits around the 92% mark on 700cc injectors

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...