Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Stagea has a vibration at speeds above around 80kmh. At first I thought it was a puncture repaired front left tyre but got that fixed and even swapped the front wheel to the back but it is still there.

Wheels have been balanced by at least 3 different places now, so not sure what is causing this. It feels like out of balance wheels but have been told it isn't, doesn't feel like an out of round wheel (my Skyline had that problem). It is a very fast but weak vibration and doesn't seem to do it at lower speeds, that I can notice.

Following a search of the threads, found this list from our guru (Sydneykid):

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer? Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

Therefore, should I just check each of these items in turn until find something?

Further, during my 100,000km service, the workshop noted something along the lines of front diff oil seal leaking - is this a major repair issue or just a case of replacing seals?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105479-driveline-vibration-at-80kmh/
Share on other sites

mate its probably uni joints .... one has a tolerance out and is causing an unbalance vibration ... either that or you have thrown a tailshaft weight off (rare)

test by taking car to 80kms then coast (no drive) to see if it still vibrates usualy it will if its the tail shaft uni's as the tail shaft is rotating as fast as the wheels are driving it ...

Good luck!

Further, during my 100,000km service, the workshop noted something along the lines of front diff oil seal leaking - is this a major repair issue or just a case of replacing seals?

hey mate do u mean the diff front plate seal, or the sump to engine seal is leaking? the diff front plate is piss easy and the other is a pain in the arse. :P

just take front plate off, add gasket goo from nissan and put back on :(

Edited by CruiseLiner

check the tailshaft centre bearing would be my suggestion,if you've already eliminated the wheel bearings,wheels and tyres.

it's possible someone has had the shaft out before and put it back in in a different orientation. normally this won't cause a problem,but if you have a worse-than-usually-balanced shaft,it would cause what you're describing.

just out of interest,how much balancing weight is on your wheels?

if there's a lot (as in over 50grams per side),that's indicative of another problem.

Justin...

Thanks for the replies guys and it is now time to begin the hunt to determine the cause of the problem and then the fix.

Will see how it goes but at least it is still driveable

As for your question Brad, not sure as they just put it on the invoice that the "front diff seal leaking".

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, but I've got a similar problem.. I get steering wheel vibration above around 80km/h. I took it to get a balance but the guy said the vibration is because of the tyres. He said because of how the tyres have worn they are impossible to balance. He said you can try balancing them as much as you want but the vibration isn't going to go away so he'd just be 'taking my money'. He said the tread had 'feathered' and that you can tell by running your hand over the tyres. So he says I need to get new tyres to fix the problem. Could this be true or he is just trying to get me to buy new tyres??

Feathering on tyres is caused by the wheels not being aligned properly.

Get a wheel alignment done. If you buy new tyres without getting the wheels aligned, the same problem will happen and you would have wasted your money on tyres.

Thanks champ. Yea they did a wheel alignment. So this 'feathering' thing actually happens? Just get new tyres fitted and balanced and it should be good? Thanks again.

Just to add another suggestion:

Check that the casing of the tyre isn't letting go. This may show up as a deformation in the shape of the tyre - like a lump/bulge in the wall or flat part of the tread.

On a tyre on our caravan the deformation was hardly noticable at all except for the vague handling at speed.

The amount of tread left (ie age of the tyre) has little to do with it. Hitting a gutter or rock on the road may be enough to damage something internally.

If you're worried about getting had on a new set of tyres when the current tyres have plenty of life left, then keep the old set of tyres to use again later. If the new set fixes the problem then you know you can throw the old ones.

The Stagea has a vibration at speeds above around 80kmh.  At first I thought it was a puncture repaired front left tyre but got that fixed and even swapped the front wheel to the back but it is still there.

Wheels have been balanced by at least 3 different places now, so not sure what is causing this. It feels like out of balance wheels but have been told it isn't, doesn't feel like an out of round wheel (my Skyline had that problem).  It is a very fast but weak vibration and doesn't seem to do it at lower speeds, that I can notice.

Following a search of the threads, found this list from our guru (Sydneykid):

1. Out of balance tyres (are they balanced inner and outer? Or just one set of weights?)

2. Out of round tyres (easy to check on the balancer)

3. Out of centre wheels (do they lock securely over the hub centre?)

4. Out of round wheels (how is the run out on the inner and outer rims?)

5. Out of balance brake rotors (unusual, but does happen)

6. Worn wheel bearings (jack it up and check the movement, in and out top and bottom)

7. Worn radius rod bushes (you can see it, the rubber is torn and fluid leaking)

After that it gets obscure, eg; worn shocks can cause vibration after hitting a bump.

Therefore, should I just check each of these items in turn until find something?

Further, during my 100,000km service, the workshop noted something along the lines of front diff oil seal leaking - is this a major repair issue or just a case of replacing seals?

Hey

I had a similar problem with my GTR. Driveline started to vibrate on medium to hard acceleration and only when it was about 70km/h and over.

First thing to be done was the centre bearing, did look pretty worn but didnt fix it.

Wheel alignment and balance on 2 different sets of wheels. Checked all rear bushes and links.

Replaced front prop shaft as the uni joint was pretty flogged out (wasn't affecting vibration as it wouldnt make any difference with this shaft out ie 2WD).

Replaced small rubber and metal sleeve mounts for gearbox crossmember, again, worn out but didnt fix problem.

Took out tailshaft and put back in but rotated it around from original position. From what the mechanic told me there is 4 different ways for it to go back in. He moved it one mounting positon around and it was all fixed. :P

It took a bit of money and research to get it sorted for an annoying problem but probably was a good thing to get all these worn out bits n pieces replaced before they broke or caused potential damage.

Jono

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...