Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i was getting my clutch replaced i got them to also have a look at the brakes as at low speed braking they squeel like a bitch. I am running DBA 4000 and Racebrakes DB74 i think. Anyways long story short i was told my pads, rotors and over brake systems is in great condition however he said that the pads are just such a hard compound that pretty much no matter what i do they will squeel. Alternative is to get softer pads.

Same combination as leech.

I've found the same thing as FAT32. I fitted the pads and rotors myself and bed them as per Racebrakes instructions. Used CRC Anti-Squeal paste on the shims. Not a sound for about 2,000km and now I have the low-speed/moderate braking noise. After applying the anchors quite hard going around bends the noise subsides for the next week or two. Could the RB74s glaze the disc and need strong braking to remove the glaze? Just a thought.

cowie i thought that too but when i got my brakes inspected they didnt seem to indicate that it was the cause eg glazing. The more so put it down to the hard pads... however in saying that what Pal has said was also mentioned to me by another guy who just popped up on the forum he said that putting a bit of grease between the shims might also help so i will probably give that a try in the next week or two as its getting really bad...

hahah hmm i got some project mu mads on the fronts, and they only make a noise, when i reverse out of my driveway.. thats the only time it makes a noise.. IM guessin coz its probably high temp reatted pads.. SO takes time for it to heat up..

but most of the jap brand pads makes noises..

  • 2 weeks later...

mine were squeaking wen it felt liek it lol which was 3/4 of the time whether it was hot or cold LOL.. i took the pads out.. used wd40 and cleaned the back of the brake pads & also the metal sheets behind it (sorry dunno wat it called) and put sum of that anti squeal and it was all gone :dry:

Thats how your suposed to do it, every 200m or so (sufficient time to cool a bit) you should be giving your brakes hell until your almost stopped but never stop or there is a very real possibility of heat soak and warping for a fair few emergency stops.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...