Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im lookin at gettin my car down into the 11s, and maybe 10s (in-time)

besides all the other stuff that obviously needs to be done, what do u guys think is the best size cooler and turbo to get?

at the moment im leaning towards a t4 cos i want to run mega boost in my car..over 20/25 psi, but i want it to kick in early, like still at 3k rpm, not 6k

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/
Share on other sites

What sort of hp figure are you chasing?

IMHO, you are better off running the lowest boost that you can. Dont confuse boost pressure with air flow. It is possible to get a turbo to pump more air at 1bar than another turbo pushing 2 bar, the lower the boost the less likely you will experience detonation. Also with higher boost pressure, you may have to decompress the engine = worse off boost response and less torque at lower revs, something I would like to avoid.

It appears to me that sometimes people use boost pressure to overcome a poorly flowing engine. If you get your head ported, manifold and plenum match ported (with a decent plenum), and a decent set of cams and cam gears, you will be able to get alot better power at lower boost - with the right turbo.

As an example, AED can flow an RB25 head to 403hp at atmo, and Darren is quite confident that 600hp would be easily achievable at 1 bar.

Just some food for thought, decide what your hp goals are, and see what the best setup would be to achieve this with lowest possible boost - within of course, your other requirements of where you would like boost to come on.

Remember aslo, that in an ideal world, we would be able to make 600bhp with boost hitting hard at 1500rpm, but this just will not happen - the bigger the hp you want, the more lag to expect within reason.

Just my 0.02

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-169871
Share on other sites

Yup as Steve said, choose a HP figure and build around that.

I see way too many people buying the biggest turbo and biggest fmic they can find and it just doesn't work together and they either end up with serious lag or way under the power figures they were expecting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-169981
Share on other sites

You need between 350 and 400HP at the flywheel to get the 11's all things being equal. More horsepower makes that task easier all the same, so why not 800HP?

Readings at the tyres are not what you ought to interest yourself in. Get components together for an engine power rating.

A good ballbearing turbo, airflow rated at 420-450HP should do the trick, then a intercooler of the same rating. Then do everything else that needs doing for that power, to make the motor last.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-170314
Share on other sites

hmmm..start saving!! to get you up to that is probably going to cost you the best part of $10k (depending on how you source your parts). Every second off is $$$ and it goes up and up.

Do you want to get those times for coolness factor or to actually use on a track in drag or racing??

You might actually find that as you go up you might have second thoughts about having something that quick (try that in the wet :D). Seems like you are chasing something truly quick but as you get into it more, because of reliability, safety and above all cost (petrol costs, rebuilding engines, running back and foward, etc, etc) you might have second thoughts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-172140
Share on other sites

Here is an example : 400Hp or just a snick under in a car that weighs the same as an R33 line (VH commodore) low 11's all day on street rubber, 10's with slicks.

Skylines are not a special case. Apply the basics with that much power and you will get the times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10570-fmicturbo/#findComment-172674
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...