Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if I could get an opinion on the system I am buying for my 'line:

Stage 1: (Now)

Head Unit: JVC KD-LH2000 w/MP3

Front Speakers: VDO Dayton HPC1700 6" splits

Rear Speakers: VDO Dayton HSP1721 6.5"

Stage 2: (Soon)

Sub Woofer: JL Audio 12w3v2d4 12"

Amplifiers: Coustic 401DB (Monoblock)

Coustic 481QE

I am looking for sound quality over loudness and i think these are some pretty good choices but I am open to any suggestions/comments before I take the plunge.

-Max

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10598-thoughts-on-my-system/
Share on other sites

Agreed. There's lotsa good electronics out there, but only a handful of primo speakers. If you value accurate sound reproduction above all else, check some Euro brands like Focal, DLS, Dynaudio. Boston Acoustics are good too. Believe me it's well worth spending dough on speakers.

So the top of the range VDO's are no go? I've listened to them and they sounds pretty damn great, plus I should mention that the whole system is meant to cost less than $2500 including wiring (which this does)

Well for $3000 I just got installed (on Thursday):

* Pioneer deh-p8450mp deck

* Boston Rally 620 splits

* Boston FX6 rears

* Clarion V-Net 4 channel amp (for speakers)

* 12" Rockford Punch HE sub

* Rockford f200 amp (sub)

Went to Lifestyle at Norwest. Those guys are awesome and actually seem like they care what happens to the system. Highly recommended, although their installations (different site) had a bit to be desired...

Really happy with it! It's renewed the excitment of jumping in the car! ;)

i also think that you should rethink the speakers.... you could do so much better, i definitely love Boston Acoustics, Phoenix Gold, Orion etc.... all the big American names.... people have to learn that they do it bigger and better, i have used almost every brand out there and i know what i always sit down to every time that i get into my ride :D take your time with the system if need be, so what if you don't have that extra little bit of cash right at the moment, take it slow and do it right the first time. Dont try and do everything at once. maybe get a good deck and splits to start off with, maybe even a nice amp to run the splits, then work back. so what if it takes you a bit longer, at least you will have a kickass system then; rather than going " shit, i wish i had done this differently, oh well there goes my money"........ go american names, big power, clear hard hitting output.

oh, and about the LH2000, it has a 24bit Digital Audio Converter which is really cool, but only 2v preout; they spent more time on the graphics. you should be able to pick up a JVC SH707R or SH909R for only a little bit more and they have an endless list of features compared, i have used them all and love the SH series :D

hmm well there are certain things in even the low range that seperate themselves from the rest, usually depending on what features you are looking for.... eg. warranty, how many lines out, output voltage, digital audio converter, mp3, graphics, remote, etc etc.

JVC have really taken the market when it comes to well priced raesonable quality head units, at the moment no one else offers a decent quality mp3 player with remote and dcp for under about $500 (alpine starts at $899, Clarion at $859, Kenwood at $899, Blaupunkt at about $700 etc etc)

when it comes to speakers in the low end if you are looking at splits for example, make sure that you at least get a pair with seperate crossovers, not inline, they will sound much better as well as usually being able to adjust the db level for the tweeters on a seperate crossover. it just really depends what you are looking for.

as an overall outlook though, if you have no real taste for the best possible sound or comps, or just plain do not have enough money ever; then yes the lower end stuff is quite good for the money, but my point is, is you can afford that few extra dollars on any one product to get more features then it would be very advantageous to do so :)

if you have any ideas of what system you're looking at then let me know and i will see if i can give you some well priced options :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...