Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod Box....Really..WhY?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

UAS has two boxes to encapsulate your pod. There is one made of fibreglass for $195 and for ultra wank :whackit: they have carbon fibre one aswell.

Look in "parts and accessories " -> "Skylines" -> "Engine Clutch And Gearbox Components"

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/

OR

You can just make your own turbo partition like they have on the above site aswell.

I cant believe people dont know about this. I am thinking of setting up a web site with photos of the way i installed my front mount intercooler, pod filter, etc and the little things that go with it all like thermal wrapping the dump and partitioning the pod filter, how to pipe the intercooler, cold air feed, etc because not enough people are doing this.

At the moment i am toying with the idea of installing some cosworth vents in the bonnet (facing backwards close to the back of the bonnet) because of the tremendous amount of heat trapped under the hood. The problem is of course making it so that water wont drip onto essential components under normal conditions. If anyone out there has suggestions for more subtle and as effective vents to stick in the hood i am all ears. Note anyone that tries to suggest something like mounting a subaru bonnet scoop will be hunted down and shot......

Again for the people who dont remember physics "HOT AIR RISES" and with no where for it to go under the hood it will simply soak into your engine ie "HEAT SOAK" as a result you may get pinging and your car wont perform as well because the intake charge is heated by every component of the engine before it reaches the combustion chamber

:)

R33NT:

You have raised some good points. For a n00bie .... what sort of instruments could I get that tell me temperatures of certain components?

I'm not a fan of 'gauges' so I'd prefer a digital screen/readout.

What components should I be keeping an eye on ?

Im all for maximising power out of my current engine setup and I know that like the pod airbox giving a cold air intake keeping engine temperatures at a decent level will also increase performance/life of an engine.

I had looked at raising the bonnet but i didnt like that idea because it would mean the firewall would get drenched every storm we had. I know the engine bay is water proof to some extent but i dont like the idea of pouring bulk water over an area of the engine bay that wasnt designed for that. Note we get serious storms up here in the NT, the storm usually last 4 months and it is called the monsoon.

Carbon fibre bonnet! to much of the ol' :whackit:

Benm i may be a newbie to this forum but i have had my GTS25t for over 3 years and i am an Engineer (bought it when i finished my degree's). As such i crave all the knowledge i can manage about my car and i have had 3 years to do it. Anyway i stumbled across this forum by accident when looking at a link from skylinesdownunder.

I am usually on the ford performance forum (nick = skyline) annoying everyone there. I took an XR6t for a test drive a while back and went on the above forum and gave it a rough review. It was hilarious to see how many people responded asking why nobody had criticised it before. Below is a link to my finest hour.

http://64.4.22.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN...ncefalconsforum

I would have thought a box would be best. because otherwise you are relying on the top of the bonnet to seal the top part of the partition.

Benm as for gauges i only use the stock gauges with a small HKS boost gauge (came with the car) mounted under my head unit. I had thought of getting a pillar mount twin gauge type setup which would house my boost gauge and one of those autometer air fuel ratio meters. You will find that a humans are better at reading a gauge at a glance then reading a digital display using something like 7 segment readout.

Jay95R33 do you have templates for your box?? If so could you email them to me at

[email protected]

Thanks

Originally posted by R33NT

Jay95R33 do you have templates for your box?? If so could you email them to me at

[email protected]

Thanks

Yepp no worries.

I've got the templates at work in Word and JPG format. I'll email it out to anyone that want's it on Monday :uh-huh:

J

a31_cefiro: I have that issue thanks anyway. i have read it a few times and will probably do something similar! Do you haapen to have the first installment of the 34 project? I have all of the others except for the very first one! very useful info for me...

R33NT: dude, read my earlier post, i already know that the pipe can collapse and why...i have bought a pod but want to make / buy a cold air box for it before i use it, i have read the article and also will be changing the ribbed condom in due course - similar to the hpi 34 project car. Oh yeah and i like the pod noise but its TOO loud, i dont want that much attention, and changing gears less than 2000rpm just to keep it quiet is not my idea of driving :D

Hi guys, I use the $40 digital temperature probes and displays from Jaycar for doing this sort of stuff on road cars. I have one in the cold air box, one on the compressor outlet and one just before the throttle body. The passenger reads and writes down the numbers for review later.

You could do it with one and move it around, that would cost less but be a little less convenient.

On the race cars we use the temperature probes on the Pi or Motec data logging system. No passenger required.

We have found no real temperature differences between having a lid and not having one when the car is moving. When stationary the lid does make a bit (not a lot) of difference but as soon as the car moves and air flows in through the vent and pipework the temperature returns to ambient.

Hope that adds to the discussion.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi guys, I use the $40 digital temperature probes and displays from Jaycar for doing this sort of stuff on road cars.  I have one in the cold air box, one on the compressor outlet and one just before the throttle body.

I've got one of those too. Thy seem pretty good for the $$$$.

Just wondering how you go when using them, cause the lead to the probe isn't long enough to bring the display into the cabin.. Do you just leave it outside???

Also, when you mount it in, do you just wedge it under one of the pipes and crap it up tight??? I was always paranoid of doing it this way !!

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...