Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had a look around once too for a short shift kit, and it ranged from 300-800.. which i thort was pritty nuts. but nar i didnt hear from any1 that it would damage the gear box.. although i wouldnt quote me on that :angry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106323-short-shift/#findComment-1960871
Share on other sites

The short shifter itself won't hurt the gearbox at all (if designed properly).

BUT the gumbi behind the stick can! All it does is shorten the throw so you have to be much more concious of, and precise with what you're doing with your clutch and gear stick in unison.

Say your a boy racer and like to smash second gear when taking off. The longer throw of the standard gear stick provides a slower, smoother engagement of your synchros' and the occasional mess up only results in a minor crunch were as a short shift will engage the gear much quicker with less movement by you working your synchros' harder and if you mess up, possibly a much nasitier result! :angry:

And thats not including the current condition of the gearbox and synchros'.

If you adapt your driving it can be a very useful and enjoyable mod!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106323-short-shift/#findComment-1961049
Share on other sites

yeah ellie is right, just means by shortening the throw in the shifter you can physically apply more pressure to the gearbox/synchros etc making bad shifts much worse. Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly and learn to use it and it shouldn't be an issue.

There are C's shortshifter kits being sold by Gr33dy in the groupbuys or business sellers section. Have a look there for prices, i've heard its not too difficult to fit yourself if you aren't bad with tools

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106323-short-shift/#findComment-1961180
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...