Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Its time to take my car back to stock for sale.

As a result I have the following parts which are no longer needed

#1 - Fujitsubo Super Legalis R Exhaust System

This is a 3.5 inch big bore exhaust system, mandrel bent, with NO BENDS at all. Its been on the car about 6 months, and it is very quiet.

I am after $500

#2 - Splitfire coils for GTR33

These coils have been on the car for about 3 months. Replaced the standard coils because i was getting missfire above 1.2 bar. These work excellent, and have been on the car for a short period of time. They are in brand new condition.

I am after $500 (sold pending payment)

#3 - HKS style front pipes for GTR33 - 3 inch each into 3.5 inch.

What can i say? HKS copies front pipes. Paid about $400 for these 6 months ago.

I am after $175

#4 - Tomei Poncams 260/9.15 mm lift

I have had these in the car for about 3 months. They make the car sound and perform perfectly with the turbos I have. Excellent power at good revs. Very happy with these, but they will not fit in the new car.

I am after $750

#5 - Nissan Skyline GTR 33/32 POWER FC + Hand controller

Once again, this has been in the car for about 6 months. It is like brand new. No scratches, etc.

I am after $800

#6 I also have two gauges available. A greddy mechanical boost gauge in white which is 6 months old and has a cup, and a greddy electronic oil temp gauge which is maybe a year old and also has a cup. Offers on these ?

#7 Garrett GT2860R/2560R (whatever you want to call them) turbos. Used for approximately 3 months. Done very little kms on them. Boosted to a max of 1.3 bar, these turbos perform very well. On a bad tune with 1.2 bar i ran 117mph at the drags :D. They sound absolutely awesome, and i love em but I need money for the new car.

I am after $2000

#8 Catco High flow cat for GTR33 3.5" (may fit other cars also, but depends on flange/bolt up pattern)

I am after $200

I have done maybe MAX ~ 5,000 kms if that over the last 3 months, so all these parts are practically brand new.

For any offers, realise its all neg - I wont take stupid offers, because i know what all these parts are worth,

Cheers

Tommy

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Also forgot to add that I have the original boxes that the goods came in for the following items

Camshafts (still have procam stickers)

Apexi Power FC

1x Greddy Boost gauge

That is all

Cheers

Hi im intrested in the poncams? .. where abouts are you..if your in nsw.. ill be travelling over there in a fortnight so if you still have them .. i would be very intrested in them.

Both the boost gauge and oil temp gauge are 60mm

They are both still hooked up in the car at the moment, so can be seen working.

They come with the standard japanese fitting temp gauge thingy that i have mounted in my oil cooler kit.

I'll try and locate some photos for both, but they are all white gauges

Sorry Mark,

Just saying that the power FC wont fit an R34 (which is what i will be getting :)) and is the reason for the sale of all these parts. Otherwise I would be keeping everything ;)

Quick info page for the fujitsubo exhaust

http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/search/prod-v.p...cnamID=00000514

Interesting things to note, are that it weighs 8 kilos LESS than the stockie, puts out 94dB @ 5100 rpm, JUST LIKE THE STOCKIE.

There are also some power figures, and pretty pictures

00000000000000001953.jpg

00000000000000001953.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...