Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it's $38 for oil and filter, I wouldn't think the oil is much chop. I paid $8 for an replacement Oil Filter. I would just use something else, round the 5w-50w range. I just put Mobil 1 in my car cause I didn't have time to look around for Redline or Royal Purple or nothing. Cost me $50 for 5 litres.

yeah i generally use the cheapest oil there is at the moment...last oil change it was shell helix (5w-40), this time it could be mobil 1(5w-50) occasionally i use the castrol formula r...but damn thats expensive!

but the oem oil has to be good right??!?! they even use it on their silvias...

When we got our car serviced we were told to use only Genuine Bovine Nissan oil... But we haven't used a drop of oil since so I dont see us having to buy any in the near future. Although I see another service coming on pretty quick :D

Too much driving.

We've done 8000k's in 3 months :(

Originally posted by adam 32

when nissan designed that oil/filter combination for a nissan skyline they didnt have a boosted, intake/exhaust/cooler modifed car in mind....

if youve modified your car in any way from factory i would have to start to think that maybe nissans oil isnt any longer suitable

true... too bad we dont have any of that royal purple stuff over here in melb....i wouldnt mind trying it and see how it goes.....

  • 2 weeks later...

I used the Nissan oil for about 12 months, on a stock car. After i put on the 'cooler, exhaust and filter I found that the oil seemed to feel shit after about 1000kms. Since that i have been using Mobil 1 5w 50w, seems to be really good, done about 1500kms on it so far and it seems the be holding up pretty well. Hope this helps

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...