Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was just trial fitting the intercooler today (from JUST JAP) and found a few things I don't have answers for. The original pipe has a little nipple that comes out which is connected to the bleed valve/boost controller. If I take that piece off when I put the new pipe on, where is the boost controller gonna connect to?????.

The blue round things in from of the radiator...........would that be the horn?? if so, why are there two of them??

Lastly, big long pipe that goes over the fan, it has a piece of metal coming out with two holes that seems to connect to the two holes on the engine but when I trial fitted on, they don't seem to match up no matter how hard I try.

If anyone has some detail pic or info of their front mount install for a Series 2 GTST please help me out.

Was just trial fitting the intercooler today (from JUST JAP) and found a few things I don't have answers for. The original pipe has a little nipple that comes out which is connected to the bleed valve/boost controller. If I take that piece off when I put the new pipe on, where is the boost controller gonna connect to?????.

The blue round things in from of the radiator...........would that be the horn?? if so, why are there two of them??

Lastly, big long pipe that goes over the fan, it has a piece of metal coming out with two holes that seems to connect to the two holes on the engine but when I trial fitted on, they don't seem to match up no matter how hard I try.

If anyone has some detail pic or info of their front mount install for a Series 2 GTST please help me out.

i had the some problem fitting one last week into my sons car o made a bracket that bolts to that flat bit plate and then onto the engine bracket i had to make new brackets for the intercooler as well as the supplied ones didnt quite line up. also the clamps supplied are a bloody tight fit and caused some grief as well my kit wasent from just jap tho it was a geniune hybrid hope the pic helps . btw the horns just undo them and mount them inside the engine bay next to the rad

sorry about posting the same pic twice here is the 2nd pic i ment to post

yep i have a photo where the hole goes but all it shows is the pilot hole for the centre of the holesaw btw the hose from the boost controller i just brought a t piece and connected it the line that comes out of the plenum to the fuel regulater seems to work ok not causing any hassles

Edited by mid life crisis

do you have to relocate the washer bottle at all?

you wouldn't happen to have a picture of the hole from the engine bay would u? so I could get a rough idea where to drill the hole.

do you have to relocate the washer bottle at all?

you wouldn't happen to have a picture of the hole from the engine bay would u? so I could get a rough idea where to drill the hole.

mate i didnt even remove the bottle when i drilled the hole the hybrid kit come with picturesand measurments for the hole give me ya email addy and i will pass on the instructions to ya

You'll prob find the cooler was made for an RB20 as the holes will match up no worries on the side of it. You can suvive without this part attached... I have mates who have just broken it off!!

i would rather spend 10 mins making a bracket than just to rip it off and have a lump of broken weld stuck on the pipe let alone taking the chance of tearing a hole in the pipe while ya just rip it off

I got a hybrid kit and it said to trim the fan to make the top pipe fit, i also remade the cooler mounts to make it easier to fit. Then i missed when i drilled the hole and made a bit of a mess, but that should be repaired asap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...