Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will be moivng from SA to work at Labrador in early April for at least 14 months. I am currently looking for accomodation in the Gold Coast. I am not sure to get a house or an apartment with 2 parking spaces at this stage but prefer to be close to the water. Where do you guy recommend for the best place/suburb to live in the Gold Coast? Is there any suburb that I should avoid? Is there any place that is best value for investment? I can probably afford a 400K mortgage.

I will be taking my r32gtr and honda s2000 up there. How far away is Willowbank? Where is the best and nearest circuit track(s)?

Thanks in advances for kind info and warnings

Edited by 9krpm
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108519-moving-to-gold-coast/
Share on other sites

there are good and bad places on the coast just like everywhere in oz...to be honest labrador is a poor area...but near the water its ok...nerang is a crap area too...if you want a close suburb near work you can try southport or biggera waters, runaway bay...willwbank is a easy hours driver from the coast...cheers

I'd be avoiding nerang, and southport, and labrador as previously mentioned.

Places like paradise point, runaway bay, arundel, helensvale are fairly established areas. Not too bad, still a bit of crime like anywhere.

Pacific Pines comes to mind, fairly new development, reasonably priced properties.

With the M1, major highway, there is many many options, just avoid the main coastal areas, aside from pricey, way too touristy. Runaway bay gets you just out of the tourist areas.

Prob lots more i could think of but thats it for now :(

I currently own a place in ashmore, but its a sh1thole, regardless to the fact that it is central to shopping centres, public transport and surfers paradise (the heart of the gold coast for all the fun) im selling my place because of the crime in the area, also street noise and because all houses in the area are old or renovation jobs...

Im now looking into places like pacific pines, its a little further out say 13mins to get to the beach, and its also very close to schools, public transport for those drunken missions up to brissy and very close to shopping centres. its a very nice homely type suburb that arent all packed togeather like sardine can houses (no dero's all nice family type people, untill i get there :) ).

ill be building a new place on a 670sqm block of land, 4dbrm, 2 living rooms, patio, entertainment room and all the rest of the crap for 387k (cheap i know!), with out light fittings and all that crap. just something to keep in mind.

my second choice in mind was to move to arundle which is a little closer to the water, but its a little more expensive but offers houses of a similar stature.

runaway bay = old houses but nice, too expensive

labrador = fibro shack houses, can any one way welfare.

helensvale = not too bad but currently prices appreciating because of a new shopping centre, becomming over priced.

pacific pines = my choice

robina = too far away, newish houses but houses are small and quite expensive

surfers paradise = expensive, unless u get a shite place and quite noisy

pimpama = on the way to brisbane, cheap, in the middle of nowhere

burleigh = close to the water, decent houses are expensive, little bit of crime

southport = central to everything, old houses, new houses are reno jobs, noisy suburb and crime issues

nerang = i think they have more centerlinks in nerang than the rest of qld in this suburb, jk's

there are many other suburbs but its late and i have to work at 10 tomrrow, but ive hoped ive helped. ;)

Edited by |ANT|

Near the labradoor area though there is Arundel which has a new golf coarse going in with surrounding property

A mate of mine just purchased a house and land package for $285000 and already valuead at 295 :s before the build is finished.

Have been told it will rise alot over a few years when the coarse is finished.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...