Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have recently purchased an R32 with a standard RB20 in it. I am not happy with the power its producing.

Mods i have done so far:

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Pod Filter

Hybrid fmic

What would be the best modifications to get next... Boost Controller? new ECU?

From your experience what are the best ways to get more power out of an RB20?

Any advice will be appreciated! :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108572-better-performance-for-an-rb20det/
Share on other sites

I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller just yet.

Elongate the wastegate actuator holes and set it up on the dyno @ 1bar if you have an fmic or ~12psi without.

The idea is you reduce the wastegates travel, as a result increasing boost.

It works very very well.

A bleeder will tend to drop boost when trying to run 1bar, 12psi will be fine, the wastegate actuator mod won't. + its free.

If you find its running out of fuel, be prepared to fork out for a fuel pump.

I ran mine on 1bar for almost 4 years I believe it was. ;)

Good oil with regular changes, heat range 6 sparky's and ensure afr's are good with no detonation will see the turbo living a long life.

Sometimes you luck out, life is such. :D

Winding the boost made a bit of a difference on mine when i had it, and i just used a t-piece.

The biggest differences i found, and was quite a big difference was an RB25 turbo @ 16psi and i got an ecu from dr drift. That was in a 180sx, but would have ran 12.7-8's for sure, and was more driveable and much better on fuel than before i got the chipped ecu. The turbo was no laggier, and revved cleanly till 8000rpm

Hi.

Please have a red of the sticky thread in this section :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=45218

Thats a good thread to start you off.

Then these threads to give you an idea of what mods will get you:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=54854

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8229&hl=260rwkw

I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller just yet.

Elongate the wastegate actuator holes and set it up on the dyno @ 1bar if you have an fmic or ~12psi without.

The idea is you reduce the wastegates travel, as a result increasing boost.

It works very very well.

A bleeder will tend to drop boost when trying to run 1bar, 12psi will be fine, the wastegate actuator mod won't. + its free.

If you find its running out of fuel, be prepared to fork out for a fuel pump.

I ran mine on 1bar for almost 4 years I believe it was. :D

Good oil with regular changes, heat range 6 sparky's and ensure afr's are good with no detonation will see the turbo living a long life.

Sometimes you luck out, life is such. :D

Thanks for the advice, how do you elongate the wastegate actuator holes can this be a DIY or do you need to go to a performance workshop?? If so, any recomendations?? Im really considering getting an RB25 Turbo - where is the best place to buy RB25 Turbo's from? (im in sydney). I have moeny to play around with but not be f#cked around with :blush:

Buy a DR Drift boost controller.. Boost will come on earlier and gives you the option of changing boost level much easier...

Modifying the actuator is an oldschool mod for when boost controllers were too expensive.

Edited by Drift_Limo

Drift_Limo,

I run the 'dr_drift' boost controller, it drops boost from 14 down to 11 running the vg30 turbo.

The manual boost controller to bring boost on a 'little' quicker then the actuator mod to reduce travel to prevent boost dropping.

Just the boost controller alone won't prevent the rb20's usual boost drop. :P

Chris,

Pop the bonnet and have a look at the actuator.

The actuator bolts on to the turbo with 2 bolts, when you remove the actuator you simply elongate the holes to the right.

The wastegate mod essentially does EXACTLY the same thing as buying an aftermarket adjustable actuator for ~$120.

The aftermarket actuator uses a bolt on the actuator arm to adjust it in or out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...