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Sure it's not ADSL2+ over a telstra dslam?

"ADSL" will get you 8mbit/1 and "ADSL over POTS G.992.1" 12mbit/1.3 under perfect line conditions.

Adam can still tweak the line profile, but you've got to call up to get it done.

Most likely, when my account was rolled over this month, the speed hadn't been applied yet as they were waiting for their wholesaler to action my request.

Looking for a laptop, no more than $1500, that is larger than 16" HD screen, has i7 quad core, 8gb ram, backlit keyboard, blueray dvd drive, with gaming-spec video card. Any suggestions? Wanting for University and as a spare pc for one of the kids to use on weekends while the other is on the desktop. They play the left4dead series together (probably not right for a 5yr&7yr old but they love me for it)!

bit off topic, but does anyone have an old copy of need for speed underground 2 or any newer version they no longer want. Reason is i work away again each second week and have no tv or internet while away and just want a simple game to play to pass away time off shift. im in N.E area but can collect from most area or pay postage

cheers

matt

Shit was pissing me off so smashed my old Razer Lachesis mouse onto the concrete yesterday early afternoon

180440_1699371358039_1050551866_31627224_3027560_n.jpg

ordered new mouse from PC CASE GEAR soon after

and it arrived this morning just now! :worship:

will never buy Razer products again - that was my second Lachesis after I sent away my first one under warranty due to the same problems - laser bugging up or some shit... searched around and seems to be a fairly common problem across numerous Razer mouse models.

Picked up a Microsoft Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 instead... heard its good and it's only $50!

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    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
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