Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here she is!

Unwashed but much loved.

Definatly worth waiting for.

1996 Nissan Stagea RS FOUR 4WD 2.5 litre turbo wagon

Automatic

90,000 kms

Green

17" VOLTARE alloy wheels

Aftermarket exhaust

Strut tower brace

Twin airbags

Roof rails

Rear cargo net

All power options and airconditioning

Factory rear wiper

Rear tinted windows

now a few questions :P

Q1. what is the fluid bottle in the right hand side of the boot?

Q2. what is the S botton to the right to the steering wheel? pic attached

Q3. and what does the 4wd light mean? I sore it on accessories mode but not when driving. Is it something you can turn on and off?

thanks guys

hugh

post-27144-1141880143.jpg

post-27144-1141880626.jpg

post-27144-1141881138.jpg

post-27144-1141881413.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108910-my-mr30-replacement/
Share on other sites

Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

Welcome to the group.

It's a good looking wagon. I like the colour, mine's boring old silver.

Here are some answers for you.

Q1. The fluid is for the ATTESSA 4WD system. When you start the car you may hear a wirring from the drivers side towards the back, it is the pump for the ATTESSA system pressurising the system.

Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Q3. The 4WD light hopefully should never come on. It means there is a fault in the system if it does.

I hope this answers your questions. Some other members may explain things better, I have not owned my Stagea for too long.

I hope you enjoy you Stagea as much as we all enjoy ours.

Happy driving.

hello

thankyou for the replys and answers. I now understand why my son spends his time on ns.com looking at all the differant things.

thanks

hugh :laugh:

Here is the side pic of the stagea.

Showing off the Voltare rims.

You can also see my ageing MR30 in the background ;)

I bought it new in 1984.

post-27144-1141963134.jpg

Edited by 66yostagea
Q2. The 'S' button is for 'synchro' mode. It basically puts the car in 4WD with a 50:50 torque split. The ATTESSA 4WD is normally 0:100 (front:rear) and the distributes torque to the front as and when it is required, up to a maximum of 50:50.

Just so no one wrecks their stagea assuming the split is 0:100, this is incorrect. The normal torque split is 20:80 until you press the button, or the car loses traction on the rear.Then it applies equal torque split. There was a thread on this button AAAGGGEEESSSS ago and we all went into great detail about how the button works

  • 2 weeks later...

apart from rust under drivers mirror there is a lot of like surface

rust underneath. not thick but thin. is this because of salt on the

roads or from the customs decontamination?

i saw an electronic anti rust gismo at ythe motor show.

will this fix it?

The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

Edited by Drift_Limo
The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed??

A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

iamshe did the comp. all new fluids.

the rust i speak of is on the underside or the flor and rails etc.

any ideas

another thing. look at roof near the 5th door on pics.

wot r those clips for.

the normal spoiler seems ti

o fit on the top of the back door??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...