Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

My new stagea has a problem.

My new car pics&details

the car is automatic, and today when i was driving it, it stalled on me two or three times. was travelling at walking speeds in a car park and the check engine light would come on then the car would stall seconds after. I think i sore the O2 sensor light come on but im not 100% sure because by the time i looked down car had stalled and was in accessories mode. the car will restart with no worries at all.

anyone have any clue to what this is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109193-my-new-stagea-stalls/
Share on other sites

Dont mention it...you'll soon learn that we're a helpful bunch around here.

You'll receive advice that you just cant pay for.

Waz

P.S. Dont wash your engine, or you'll have more then stalling problems

yeah hey i had the same problem with mine not so long ago i checked all vacuum lines and no leak i then started checking everything it turned out to be the O2 sensor. hope you can get it fixed soon cause it is a bitch when it happens especially if your going around a round about and u got nothing the steering is heavy as hell

yeah hey i had the same problem with mine not so long ago i checked all vacuum lines and no leak i then started checking everything it turned out to be the O2 sensor. hope you can get it fixed soon cause it is a bitch when it happens especially if your going around a round about and u got nothing the steering is heavy as hell

what was wrong with the sensor? is it the sensor in the dump/front pipe or the one in the cat?

It's in the the front/dump pipe. Visible from the top of the motor. Like most electrical stuff, they usually either work or they dont. I've never had to replace one, so others here may be able to shed more light. But basically, it simply unscrews and you whack in a new one. Prolly best if you spray the thread with WD40 or similar to loosen the rust. If possible borrow a friends as this could turn out to be an expensive and pointless exercise if the original is OK. Still, they're not that dear - under $100. Check that the voltage outputs on the replacement 0r borrowed one are the same as the original.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...