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Yet Another Stalling Problem...

Johnny Cash

By Johnny Cash,
in General Maintenance

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Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
Posted

Heya all,

Same old problem. Drive around, then put it in neutral. Car drops to around 500rpm, then stalls.

I cleaned the AAC like nobody's business, and still no luck. I'm running an aftermarket BOV, but am

plumbing it back.

Visually inspected the AFM and it seems fine. Is there any way to tell if it is the cause of the problem?

If I can't fix it myself, I'll have to fork out big dollars to get everything inspected one step at a time.

I've heard rumours of an idle speed control solenoid, air regulator or throttle position sensor, but the details

on them were sketchy at best.

Please help me out,

Thanks,

Adrian.

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Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just found out that with the A/C on, it wont stall. So I'm writing it off to an rpm setting issue, and will turn up the revs on the old girl, see if that sorts it out.

Will post the results on here either way.

Thanks,

Adrian.

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As an update, I cleaned the AAC, it's sparkling inside now. Put it all back

together without a drama, and it still stalls.

Other causes I've read about are as follows:

AFM dirty or oily

Fuel Pump earth wire

Fuel Filter clogged

Throttle Position Sensor needs adjusting

Crank Angle Sensor needs adjusting

I'm going to attack my AFM with carby cleaner tonight and see if that makes any difference. If it STILL stalls, I'll look into disconnecting the AAC plug, and check if that stabilized idle. If it does, I might not bother re-connecting it.

I'm also planning on changing fuel filter, and fitting iridium spark plugs.

Will eventually find the gremlin, then I'll let you all know :O

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
As an update, I cleaned the AAC, it's sparkling inside now. Put it all back

together without a drama, and it still stalls.

Other causes I've read about are as follows:

AFM dirty or oily

Fuel Pump earth wire

Fuel Filter clogged

Throttle Position Sensor needs adjusting

Crank Angle Sensor needs adjusting

I'm going to attack my AFM with carby cleaner tonight and see if that makes any difference. If it STILL stalls, I'll look into disconnecting the AAC plug, and check if that stabilized idle. If it does, I might not bother re-connecting it.

I'm also planning on changing fuel filter, and fitting iridium spark plugs.

Will eventually find the gremlin, then I'll let you all know :thumbsup:

Did you adjust the idle speed using the screw in the base of the AAC (driver's side)?

Clogged fuel filter usually has the opposite effect - idles fine, won't accelerate.

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just took my car for a spin and had a thought:

I noticed that when the boost gauge reads -0.6 on idle, the revs are around 650-700rpm. However, after driving then clutching in, the boost gauge drops to around -0.8, then slowly comes back up to -0.6.

My question is - is this cause or effect?

Is the low boost gauge reading causing rpm fluctuation, or is rpm fluctuation causing varying boost level readings? Or are both of these effects of the same cause?

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks pal. I took the AAC off the car and cleaned the sh*t out of it

with carby cleaner, got it looking real schmick. Then I put it back on and

hey presto - no difference... :D

I heard that disconnecting it can correct the problem, but then it runs a

certain rpm idle no matter if A/C is on or off. I would rather fix the

problem properly, if I can.

Thanks a bunch for your help.

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Okie dokie

I didn't mean take the AAC off (as that would obviously leave a giant gaping hole out the side of my inlet manifold).

What I meant was disconnecting the plug that goes to the AAC.

Edited by Johnny Cash
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

ok, here is procedure to check your AAC valve properly. you'll need a multimeter.

my guess is either voltage between pin 1 and ground will be wrong, or the resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 are wrong, if everything is fine start looking at other things.

(sorry about the large images...)

aac1.jpg

aac2.jpg

aac3.jpg

aac4.jpg

aac5.jpg

aac6.jpg

hope this helps :D

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it certainly looks like a lot of words and fancy pictures. Pity I know nothing about this sort of stuff. If I can't fix it with a screwdriver and a hammer, then it's beyond me.

Multimeter? I wish!

JnJ Experienced

JnJ

Posted
Posted

i dunno if this will help but, since uve mentioned that ur running with an aftermarket bov, have u tried putting a different bov? or installing ur stock one back? coz some ppl had this problem and usually the bov had been leaking or something like that, hope to be in help

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah it all works a treat now. I just cleaned the AAC and AFM.

I used carby cleaner for the AAC, and electrical contact cleaner for the AFM.

Purrs like a kitten, thank god. Let's just hope it stays that way.

Thanks for all your help, guys.

Johnny Cash Experienced

Johnny Cash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

She almost stalled on me this morning, but she was cold, and I was running my BOV atmo, so they could be causing it. I'll tighten the sh*t out of the BOV when I go home for lunch, and see if that makes a difference.

If it only happens when its cold, I'll let it go. It's when it's warm that it concerns me. It's hard to get going in the morning, like its owner :)

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