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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I reckon there's a cheeky air pocket somewhere on the side facing the body -
Both sides of the caliper properly bled? I know it can be hard to convince yourself yes/no to that question. -
Take the pads out, one side at a time, and see that the pistons on the padless side move properly when you press the pedal. Just to make sure that they're all doing the right thing. You can restrain 2 out of 3 pistons on a side if you need to make sure that one of them is moving. You might have too because if there is one pistons that is much easier to move than the others, then it will and they won't. Same (but opposite) with one that is much stickier than the others. You might find that one side is not working properly. To be clear, I do not think the caliper is spreading. It seriously only looks like it is moving side to side. To spread it has to bend around an axis formed by a line through the bridge bolts (basically the line between the two caliper halves along the top. (I'd hate to think that a brand new Alcon caliper would be that bendy.) That implies the piston related problems I speculate above.
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Hi guys, Looking for some help from the brains trust again please. Recently the RB20 in my 32 overheated, I was able to limp it home and discovered absolutely no coolant in my radiator and steam pissing out of the overflow. Since then, I have flushed the block and the radiator. We discovered that the heater box was blocked so until I can replace that we have deleted it by removing the hoses from the firewall and connecting them to each other. Filled up with coolant and demineralised water and have bled it on a number of occasions for 30-60 minutes. Now I can still drive the car but after about 30 minutes the temp guage starts shooting up and I'm at a bit of a loss as to why. The thermostat appears to be working as the lower rad hose does warm up with the rest of the engine. I'm not losing/leaking any coolant. No oil in coolant or vice versa and my mechanic friend has performed a head check which didn't indicate any gasses passing into the coolant. I've also replaced the radiator cap with a brand new GKtech one (which I have happily used on all my cars without issue) At this point I'm considering the following: Running radflush through the radiator and engine. Replacing radiator and thermostat. Anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions? TIA -
This would be the only reason the dogbone would flex - pushing/pulling it based on unequal load. Not sure how to check for this besides putting a gauge on each bleed nipple and giving it the berries to see what pressure it reads.
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