Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I win Lotto I'm going to fly to Japan and buy that car... Pure perfection

Now theres an idea!

A competition to find pics of the toughest early skyline - this is a good start, and i know of at least one which is on par with this great dr30.

I cant take credit for it - Alfadog first posted these images on the classic z cars forum.

So, lets see what beasts we can dig up!

post-14016-1143114513.jpg

post-14016-1143114574.jpg

post-14016-1143114640.jpg

Edited by The C110
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109960-splumpf/#findComment-2043767
Share on other sites

That one in the centre looks suspiciously like the off tap blue one that is for sale at Goldie atm :drag:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=102340&hl=dr30

Well I'll be. It would seem it is one and the same, This is the original interior shot I have from when it was first imported, which is still pretty much the same. I got these photos from an Importer in Adelaide when it first came in a few years back. Cool car.

post-8231-1143442571.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109960-splumpf/#findComment-2051277
Share on other sites

R30 4 door wagon..... LOL

Wow great turnout :P

That tungsten C10 would have to be just about THE toughest i have ever seen. Nice R30's, that wagon's great, wish there were some nicely modified ones over here - theyre definitey something different. That group shot of DR30's is fantastic, however, i really dont understand the thinking behind those despicable 'box' type ducts on the bonnet of the front two - their lines are completely ruined!

Lachlan, have you ever seen any well modified c110 WAGONS before? I think they'd look quite cool, and be very different. Anyway, heres a couple more:

ps- i know theres a 510 in there but its super tough

post-14016-1143628548.jpg

post-14016-1143628669.jpg

post-14016-1143628766.jpg

post-14016-1143628834.jpg

post-14016-1143628878.jpg

post-14016-1143629004.jpg

post-14016-1143629077.jpg

Edited by The C110
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109960-splumpf/#findComment-2058397
Share on other sites

Nice - the blue "666" race car is brutal.

In regards to C110 wagons, the most modified I've seen are that blue one and this very mild one (attached). I agree they have potential, but I seem to recall they were only SWB (happy to be shown otherwise!) so it would be kind of silly. How about a wagon with GT-R flares, and an SR20DET? Now that would be different...

post-14007-1143631097.jpg

post-14007-1143631133.jpg

Edited by Alfadog
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109960-splumpf/#findComment-2058451
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • How have you run it in / what has been done in those 6 hours? Also, you need to do the test hot. You have to load the new motor pretty hard to bed the rings in quickly and properly, doing it on the dyno is best and only takes an hour-ish The other question is.....what were the measured clearances post machining and do they match the specs for the piston and rings
    • Sounds like a good outcome, must be nice to have it working well, and yes everyone seems to top out under 250rwkw with a low mount rb25 so you are in the right ballpark. It really would have been worth setting up the boost controller at the same time, but at least now you can share some back to back data on how much difference holding the gate closed until you need it makes
    • I've done this both ways, I'd use the original loom & swap plugs on the engine side as you'll usually end up changing a lot of those anyway. Series 1 is usually non ABS which requires wiring which I can't remember how to do as haven't done it for over 15 years. The auto inhibitor is easy to bypass or in the meantime you can put it in neutral & unbolt it & tape it somewhere in the bay haha, then just wire reverse lights. I'd go straight to aftermarket ecu. A few basics are built in ignitor coils & reverse the CAS wiring, sort the plugs for whatever injectors & IAC-you can use an adaptor for the neo type otherwise the s1 will still work, use the knock sensors that suit the loom & it'll be pretty much running.  
    • This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
×
×
  • Create New...