Jump to content
SAU Community

Time To Buy A Pod

cmyr33

By cmyr33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

cmyr33 Apprentice

cmyr33

Posted
Posted

hi guys,

i want to buy a pod filter for my series 2 r33. what do you guys recommend and do i need any special attachments for the afm, or does the pod just go straight on in most cases? i've seen an apexi one which looks the goods, is there anything else which is good for under $160

post-26895-1142597767.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110062-time-to-buy-a-pod/
Share on other sites
ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

ive got that exact one. looks a lil small but does the job well. not to mention sounds nice :( . it should come withe mounting bracket and all the bits to attach it to the AFM. but remember, buy a box for it asap to avoid getting defected. theres guys on the forum making realy nice metal ones if ya seach in the NSW forum

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

You get what you pay for and the Apexi one is worth it. I have it and I am very happy with it. I recall reading a test where they compared most of the big name jap pods. Apexi was the best for filtration, which for me made the decision easy. I don't want dust going into my engine. At a minimum get a partition to shield it from hot air. A cold air box with a cold air feed to it is preferable. Routing some cold air to my pod with ducting made a noticeable difference to performance, on a hot day.

Mr-Toy33 Grand Master

Mr-Toy33

Posted
Posted

I just brought an apexi dual channel air pod filter on Saturday from Autobarn. Used the same air-flow meter that was already connected to my K&N Air Filter & box. Took me about 30-40mins to do after trying to undo the screws that were done up tightly from my mechanic who did work on it a few days ago.

It gives some more performance and it sounds a hell of alot better.

I got the turbosmart BOV and if you get the revs up high enough but not enough to let the bov go off fully, you'll hear the fluttering noise through the airpod!

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

The Apexi filter has the most rank and annoying sound I have ever heard, I have one and I hate it, light throttle up hill and it sounds like a tornado is coming, it is rediculous! If performance was your only criteria I would be getting this, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...67&hl=unifilter, I know I will be :P

How ever if making sick sounds and making every one think you have 1000hp cause of the crazy sounds is high on your list it is hard to go past the Apexi dual funnel pod

cmyr33 Apprentice

cmyr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I just brought an apexi dual channel air pod filter on Saturday from Autobarn. Used the same air-flow meter that was already connected to my K&N Air Filter & box. Took me about 30-40mins to do after trying to undo the screws that were done up tightly from my mechanic who did work on it a few days ago.

It gives some more performance and it sounds a hell of alot better.

I got the turbosmart BOV and if you get the revs up high enough but not enough to let the bov go off fully, you'll hear the fluttering noise through the airpod!

how much did the apexi filter cost you from autobarn?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...