Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I was just reading aqauriuz6's post about the stock boost gauge and how he modified the stock boost solenoid to give 7psi all the time. I am wondering how this is done, and if it has any detrimental effects. any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Chegs, R33 gtst BC1012

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110867-stock-boost-solenoid/
Share on other sites

On your stock solonoid there is a couple of wires going to it. Cut the black one and earthi it to your chasis somewhere. I earthed mine on the pod filter bracket.

Make sure its a good earth.

What ive noticed is i get full boost now at low rpms. I dont get more boost just get the stock max level straight away

enjoy

Actually i'm in a good mood right now so ive taken the time to scan the dyno graph i got today before and after the simple mod was done. Mind you, before the mod i had a single line running from the intake line to the turbo actuator...

The Green line is before the mod, the blue line is after the mod.

The red line is before the safcII was tuned, but thats another story.

This graph is torque:

post-23179-1143111691.jpg

This graph is boost pressure:

post-23179-1143112248.jpg

Just do it!

Edited by Mr Italy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...